DU 623 
.U54 
Copy 1 



ps fW %om 



A|ft0 



j^HOES OF fl HIJlGfiOlI, 






LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

Chap;^.h? fepyright No. 



Shelf. 



■H 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



SOUNDS FROM HOME 



AND 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM. 



Mary B. Wetmore. 



oxo 



i CINCINNATI, OHIO. 

The Editor Publishing Company. 
1898. 



Il27d 



CONTENTS. 



Introduction 9 

Echoes of a Kingdom 15 

First Letter 18 

Second Letter ....... 24 

Third Letter 27 

Fourth Letter . 30 

Fifth Letter 35 

Sixth Letter 43 

Seventh Letter . 46 

.Eighth Letter 58 

Ninth Letter 70 

Tenth Letter 74 

History of Kaahumanu 94 

Twelfth Letter 97 

Thirteenth Letter . . . . . . 105 

Grreeting to the Provisional Government . 118 

Plants and Shrubs 120 

Fruits 121 

Coffee 122 

Ferns . 123 

Organ Recital . . . . . . . 124 



OOPYRIGHT, 1898, 
BY 

The Editob Publishing Company, 



2nd OOt-7, 
1898. 



VED. 







SOUNDS FR0M H0ME 









' < 




SOUNDS FROM HOME. 



INTRODUCTION 



a 




HS^ 



O" 






^ 



^^^^ 



CrunQl' 



gie 



i 



:fe 



.e_L 



a. 



©-^ 



^^ 



o-^ 



u 



Home " is an old-fashioned word, so is 
Gungle's *^Song without Words;" neither of 
them obsolete, however, for which we are truly 
thankful. 

'*Home, Sweet Home," with its memories, its 

9 



10 Sounds From Home, 

partings, its home-comings, are ties cherished 
alike in the palace of the king and the cot of the 
peasant. 

In days of yore, as now, there were musical 
gatherings, musical evenings, in which the artist 
and amateur joined alike. There v*^ere the tal- 
ented Russian violinist and the ever encouraging 
kindly artist wath his beloved violoncello, the 
enthusiastic student, the amateur, and when the 
classic concerto or sonate was finished someone 
would unconsciously drift into the lighter vein 
of Gungle's melody, until each instrument became 
involved in the dreamy andante strains. 

Only once does the music grow frivolous and 
gay; then quickly lapses into the sedate measure 
and resumes its wonted dignity ; nothing to be 
jolly about after all. 

We are to listen to the echoes from Hawaii, 
and cannot linger over home matters ; there are 
goodbyes to say, a trunk to pack. 

It is just as well not to ask too many questions ; 
as, How far away is the sunny land? Is there a 
cable? etc., etc., it might produce discomfort; 
just hie yourself away, and leave all the cold 
and the snow behind you, and revel a while in a 
tropical clime. 



Sounds From Home, 11 

Therefore, in the afternoon of a day in early 
winter when the autumn breezes were kindly 
lingering and the chilling blasts were gathering 
for their winter carnival, the traveler departed 
for that land of sunshine, that little kingdom 
over the sea, Hawaii. 

Again we wander among home sounds and 
memories concerning a party of musical friends 
who hoped to lose sight of earthly cares and 
troubles, such as partings and farewells, in the 
music of the glorious chorals and numbers of 
Handel's Oratorio of the Messiah. 

We are seated in the opera house ; on the 
stage we see the familiar faces of the many 
members of the chorus of the *' Detroit Musical 
Society," wdth their leader, Mr. Frederick Abel, 
at the baton; below is the waiting orchestra; it 
is a fair scene; the blazing crown of lights, the 
brilliant crowded house, the tints of the pretty 
gow^ns with the palms and ferns for a framing. 
As recitative, solo, and chorus followed in turn, 
the air seemed filled with -requiems ; there was 

the sympathetic voice of the soprano whom 

had hoped to hear in that wonderful anthem, ^'I 
know that my Redeemer liveth ;" and there were 
actually tears in the beautiful voice of the con- 



12 Sounds From Home. 

tralto when she sang the solo, ** He was despised 
and rejected." Then came the soul-reviving 
** Hallelujah chorus," and soon they were home 
again, living as it were in the dim religious 
light of a cathedral, with nothing to do, but a 
prayer to say; and outside those chilling blasts 
were keeping their word, holding high carnival, 
Eolian harps, tubas, trombones, with an occa- 
sional piccolo, were executing a Wagnerian 
finale for homers. 

A memory also, of a merry little lad who sent 
a ** Sound from home," all done up in a queer 
little missive that went spinning across the sea 
to the traveler, bearing some wonderful signa- 
ture, understood doubtless by the recipient, it 
may have been Hawaiian, or Indian in its char- 
acters; nevertheless, this was how the correspon- 
dence began over that Peaceful (?) Sea, under 
whose waters were no lines to flash the message 
for weal or woe from shore to shore ; must wait 
for the letter delayed, possibly by such little 
episodes as from the heart of the Islands comes 
the word, * ' Mail Carrier treed by wild cattle, 
will not reach steamer in time." 

Thus ends our little prelude to the strains 
from other lands; and like as the traveler de- 



Sounds From Home. 13 

parted for distant lands, thus do these portions 
of home letters in journal fashion go forth en- 
circled with home surroundings and musical 
memories or *' Sounds from Home." 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM, 



" Land of the West! beneath the heavens 
There's not a fairer, lovelier clime, 

Nor one to which was ever given 
A destiny more high, sublime." 

As a trip over the continent has been so often 
written up, it will be scarcely worth while to 
jot down the journal-like letters descriptive of 
this part of the journey. One pervading 
thought, however, tinged every impression dur- 
ing the ride by rail, viz : wonder and admiration 
of the beauty of the West. How narrow are 
our views, we who seem to look only to an East- 
ern boundary. How wonderful. 

" Those palaces of nature, those vast walls, 
That pinnacle in clouds their snowy scalps." 

The deep canons, miniature Niagaras, those 
rolling prairies, the mines of gold and silver, 

the glittering jewels brought to earth's surface. 

In the far West the fair girl, the belle of som§ 

J5 



16 Sounds From Home and 

Eastern city, casts willingly her future with 
the ambitious college graduate, and all the cos- 
mopolitan grace and polish that one could wish 
for greet you as you linger for awhile in some 
Western town. In pleasant contrast also comes 
the stop for a few minutes at some ranch settle- 
ment where a swarthy face and stalwart form 
in the picturesque costume of the cowboy ex- 
presses your idea immediately of all that you 
imagined. The warm shake of the hand from 
the undaunted farmer who, through hardships 
equal to those of the pilgrim fathers, has come 
out of the conflict for bread and butter fairly 
well. He tells you all about it as he drops into 
the seat beside you in the car. 

To vary that experience comes an invitation 
to dine or sup with some titled rancher who 
understands how to live at the foot of the Rocky 
Mountains, or elsewhere, on the ranch, or other- 
wise, entertains also after a manner and hospi- 
tality that tell a story of baronial inheritance 
and ancestral home, and all deserted for the 
freedom of this western life in America. 

As we near an occasional army post we call 
to mind every move registered in the army 
journal, and are tempted to linger. 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 17 

In each and every garrison must be surely 
**some one we used to know," it may be the hero 
of some Indian battle field, or perhaps the last 
year's graduate of West Point, one of the sol- 
diers of the future, newly domiciled. 

Kind hearted people everywhere; life and 
death, human wants and wishes, joy and sorrow, 
seem to make the whole world kin. By way of 
counterbalance, however, to all this make-up of 
goodness, the glimpse at one station of two or 
three manacled train robbers of Christmas Eve 
fame was certainly very satisfactory and inter- 
esting. 

Here we are at the Golden Gate, all prefaces 
ended; and on January 31st, 1888, the staunch 
steamship, * ^Australia," bears the traveler across 
the sea to the land of sunshine and waving 
palm. 



I 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM. 

" The proud Pacific chafes her strand 
She hears the dark Atlantic roar." 

Honolulu, Feb. 9th, 1888. 

My last word to you was from shipboard just 
before leaving San Francisco, at the hour of 2 P. 
M. the 3ist of January. The weather was very 
rough from the Golden Gate. Smooth water 
was promised us after going over the bar ; but it 
did not come until the Islands were reached. 
The ship rolled and plunged wildly, and I must 
say that those w^ho enjoy storms at sea may have 
them ; I have had enough. 

The storm, we learned, was the result of what 
was called the *^Kona," at the Islands, a species 
of hurricane which has not visited them for six 
years. I am keeping up with the general style 
of our trip by having exceptional weather; the 
captain had not experienced so rough a trip 
since he had been on the route, and during the 
storm it was very agreeable to hear the quiet 

18 



Echoes of a Kingdom. 19 

tread of the quartermaster across the deck, and 
the bell striking the hour. After meals there is 
a gathering of the smokers in the smoking room, 
which I enjoy very much. Some of the officers 
in true sailor style, tell their yarns and stories 
very interestingly. 

We have some great travelers aboard ship; 
among them a Mr. Alexander, of Honolulu, a 
veritable ^^globe trotter," a sugar planter also, 
and sending last year eight thousand tons of 
raw sugar to the San Francisco market. 

There are twenty-four Chinese aboard as 
stokers, coal heavers, etc., who make excellent 
hands, doing their work well, and what is pe- 
culiar, I have not seen one of them with a grimy 
face. Almost any other native would come on 
deck with begrimed face ; but the chief engineer 
tells me that they each have their pail of water 
and bathe and change their clothes before com- 
ing on deck. 

I forgot to mention that on the stormy night 
the main boom broke loose and fell with a thun- 
dering crash on the deck just over our heads. 

Life on shipboard became rather monotonous, 
and I rejoiced when on Wednesday morning 
about five o'clock on looking out of my window, 



20 Sounds From Home and 

a soft air blowing, Cocoanut Island and Dia- 
mond Head of Oahu loomed up on the starboard 
bow and the harbor of Honolulu was in sight. 
Earth, sky and ocean in such marvelous color- 
ing mentioned by some poet as, '^A dainty 
picture in green and gold, the work by a master 
hand." I felt as if I had reached my Mecca, 
the land of everything beautiful ; but alas for 
human hopes, what means this small boat wend- 
ing its way shipward with pilot and health 
officers aboard! 

The * 'Mariposa" was quarantined on a former 
trip on account of there being small-pox in San 
Francisco, and we were not at all sure what re- 
ception we might meet with and were extremely 
anxious. They came on board, the yellow flag 
was run up, inspection began, and greatly to 
our disgust the bulletin read that passengers 
would be allowed to procure cottages on shore 
and pay the expense of a government guard. 
Ship passengers to be quarantined for eighteen 
days from date of leaving San Francisco, making 
ten days more before we could be free. 

For all of this, I suppose we must thank the 
President of the Board of Health. The ship 
reached the dock ; cargo was unloaded by 



Echoes oi a Kingdom. 21 

Kanaka longshoremen and custom house officers ; 
others came and went, but not a soul was al- 
lowed to leave the ship without permission of 
the Board of Health, until a place was secured 
where we could be under guard. Two or three 
of our passengers, residents of Honolulu, not 
allowed to go to their homes, rented a vacant 
house near their own residences. 

Twelve of us interviewed the proprietor of 
the Hawaiian Hotel, and it was arranged that he 
was to procure a cottage for us where we could 
be guarded for ten days. We remained aboard 
ship all day and took our final dinner with the 
captain, who also were not allowed to go ashore, 
and at six o'clock, in carriages, the devoted 
twelve having agreed to lodge together, were 
driven to the house from which I am now writ- 
ing. 

Allow me to give you an idea of our quaran- 
tine abode : The hotel, a very pretty and 
picturesque structure, has for its grounds a large 
square, and in this square belonging to the hotel 
are the cottages, and the entire grounds are 
filled with tropical trees, plants and flowers. With 
these at our summer resorts the sight would in- 
deed be novel and wonderful, with us it is an 



22 



Sounds From Home and 



every day picture. The house is a two story one 
with porches above and below; very comfortable 
rooms were assigned us. In front of the house 
is a high iron fence and stone post ; the hall 
wide, and runs through the house from front to 
rear. I am now writing in the hall and as I look 
out the doorway one could almost imagine it a 
large greenhouse, only no greenhouse at home 
could possibly show the same wealth of plants, 
etc. I asked the doctor (who has all the names 
at his tongue's end) to make a list of the varie- 
ties. On each side of the front porch is a tall 
palm tree and beautiful flowers are all about us. 
I w^as awakened last night by the strange notes 
of birds that I never heard before. I caught 
some of them and have reduced them to writing. 




A clarionette would give you this bird's call as 
I note it down. 

Our meals are sent over from the hotel and we 
have a Chinese attendant at our table in the 
hall. In front of the house inside of the iron 



JEclioes of a Kingdom, 23 

gates stands our guard ; our boundary is limited 
by a line marked twenty feet from the gate. If 
a friend of one of the party calls, the visiting 
must be done at a distance of twenty feet, I 
shall endeavor to pass the hours of the days of 
the quarantine in writing letters, reading, smok- 
ing, and watching the passers-by, the latter form- 
ing a kaleidoscope well w^orth seeing. As one of 
the evidences that we are in another clime, one of 
our party was awakened last night by the sting 
of some insect, and found on examination that 
he had been bitten by a centipede ; the bite is 
harmless, hovv^ever. There are no tarantulas 
or snakes here. 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM. 

Quarters of Australian Quarantine Club, 

DuDoiT Cottage, Honolulu, Sunday, Feb. 12, '88. 

Still in quarantine, and expect to be for some 
days shut up and guarded. It is a queer sensa- 
tion to be a prisoner and sit by the hour on the 
veranda of the cottage and see strange faces 
and people flock by on their way to church. To 
see the church (English) thus (which is a hand- 
some one of stone, just a block off) and yet not 
be able to step out of the gate, or even be allowed 
to go near it, seems very strange. This is be- 
coming wearisome in spite of the pleasant and 
beautiful things and charming weather about 
us. I can step off the porch and pick a banana, 
orange or mango, but I would prefer to step 
outside the gate. The guard sits or lounges 
about in front, and visitors shout their mes- 
sages at twenty feet away. 

We pass the time pleasantly, however ; we 

24 



Echoes of a Kingdom. 25 

write a little, smoke, and then take our walks 
about the house, trying a few military tactics 
by way of exercise. The weather is simply 
superb. This being Sunday, the street panorama 
is peculiar. 'The Chinese are out in force; it is 
their New Year ; the gay ones seem to delight in 
riding horseback, and gallop madly up and down 
the street, while groups of Chinese w^omen and 
children pass by. They are most beautifully 
dressed; I saw one family where there were three 
little girls, miniature Chinese, about six years 
old, . with flowers adorning their heads. Their 
dresses are of fine material and beautiful colors. 
The din of firecrackers is constant. Dr. Mc- 
Grew called at the gate today. Dr. Emerson, 
president of the Board of Health, also called to 
inspect us today. 

By this time the latter is aware that we do 
not take very kindly to our imprisonment. We 
assembled after dinner tonight, and the guard 
finding some songs and hymn books, we tried to 
sing, all of which did not prove to be a very 
great success ; therefore we gave it up and sat 
down to read. We have been trying to wear 
thin clothes here, but so far have not been able 
to do so. There is a fresh briskness about the 



26 Sounds From Home, 

air that is quite remarkable, the thermometer 
ranges from 68"" to 76°, not varying very much 
night or day. The Hawaiian band gave a con- 
cert last night, and His Majesty, King Kala- 
kaua, went off on the steamer to Hawaii 
yesterday. I hope to go to church for evening 
service this week, (five more days in quarantine.) 
On Sunday they have Low Church at 9:30 and 
High Church at 11 o'clock. I have had many 
delightful conversations with our quarantine 
party. 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM. 

February 16th. 

Memorable vine clad cottage, this ''cottage 
by the sea;" all things seem ''£0 near and yet 
so far." I hasten to write a few lines assuring 
you that all goes well. Four passengers who 
were sent elsewhere are with us; among them 
are Mr. Alexander, and Major Elliot, of U. S. S. 
''Vandalia," therefore we number sixteen. 
Although we are situated so pleasantly y/e find 
our imprisonment rather irksome; we long for 
liberty. Climate is simply superb, we live out- 
of-doors and have good appetites, but feel 
the want of exercise in our close quarters. The 
band is played near us in Emma Park, for sev- 
eral evenings past they have played delightfully. 
On Sunday evening last the Kanaka chorus 
sang; they have most melodious voices and their 
language is musical. 

'•' Aloha' ^ is used as a greeting or farewell; also 
as a term expressing affection, as Aloha ce. Love 

27 



28 Sounds From Home and 

to you. Aloha oe Nui^ signifies, My best love 
to you. 

Last evening several gentlemen of our party 
gathered on the veranda, and it was curious 
and entertaining to hear the talk and stories of 
foreign lands, shipwrecks and whaling voyages, 
as matters of every day life. They spoke of 
China, Japan, South America, Iceland, the 
Caribbean Sea and other places. No talk of 
New York, Chicago, etc. ; apparently they did 
not exist. 

We overlook a yard containing numbers of 
little wire summer houses containing magpies 
and various birds. On the fence back of our 
house is a monkey that is very funny with his 
antics. Many school children, girls and boys, 
go by with their books, most of them barefooted, 
but all clean and neat. You become quite 
accustomed here to the sight of women going 
about barefooted, wearing their Mother Hubbard 
fashion dresses, and being a wet day, lifting 
this apparently one article of dress, necessarily 
making an exhibition of ankles that would look 
very curious in any other land than this. When 
we leave here w^e shall very probably go to the 
hotel, and very likely our entire party will go to 
the volcano together later on. 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 29 

If we are out of quarantine I shall go to 
church at five today. I have learned from the 
purser today that there was a case of small-pox 
on board our ship. No one else seems to know 
of it and I have not mentioned the fact. Every- 
body was vaccinated on ship-board. There is 
not a case of small-pox on the Island, but they 
are terribly afraid of it, and the Kanaka with 
the first symptom gives up and lies down to die. 

Dr. Andrews is busy this morning painting 
some flower that is rare. The day is warm and 
I am sitting by the open window. Everybody 
loafing about. Eeading matter has become 
pretty well exhausted and we are quite ready to 
go outside and stretch our limbs and enjoy our 
freedom. I shall probably meet the King before 
I go away. They say he likes a good game of 
poker, but as I do not play, I won't be able to 
take a hand. I notice by the paper that the 
Queen had a *'tea party" and a very ''enjoyable 
time." The policemen here carry no clubs. 
Dress in white trousers and blue sack coat and 
white caps. One of them parades past our house 
and has a sharp eye on every one who stops. 

P. S. Messenger from Board of Health is 
just in with our release; everybody happy; all 
preparing to move out. 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM. 

An enchanted isle with its splendor gleams 
From Nuuanu to Waikiki, 
From the Pali's heights, historic, grand, 
To the shore of the shining sea! 

Honolulu, Feb. 18, 1888. 
Sent two letters by sail today. I can scarcely 
give you an idea of Honolulu and surroundings. 
You can imagine a beautiful summer resort like 
our own near town, only ten times more enjoy- 
able, and then try to imagine the foliage. All 
is green and luxuriant. To drive through 
tropical groves for hours, full of palms and 
tropical foliage with flowers on every side, and 
among all this the pretty little cottages and 
homes abundant, and ahvays summer, is a pic- 
ture hardly describable. I cannot with my pen 
give you any idea of it. The interior of the 
choicest greenhouse might give you a faint idea. 
Perpetual summer ; in fact, any resort that we 
know of is insignificant compared to the climate 
and life here. 

30 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 31 

Mr. Alexander speaks the Kanaka language 
quite fluently. We drove with him today arid 
saw all the beautiful places about here, visited 
also the Mausoleum of the Kings : a chapel of 
gray granite, windows of stained glass, where 
lie in state the kings of the last century ; watched 
the Kanakas making ^9o^•, this is the native food. 
The sea and mountains are all about us,' and if 
the people in the East, w^here the cold weather 
abounds, could appreciate all this wonder of 
climate on this ''Beautiful Isle of the Sea," 
they would name it '' The Garden of the World.*' 

The governor's levee last evening was a bril- 
liant affair ; I was presented to Queen Kapiolani 
and the princess. The former is rather stout, 
and of course in hue and complexion dark ; her 
dress decollete ; endeavored to converse wdth 
her, and after saying all the nice things I could 
think of her chamberlain told me that she spoke 
no English. This, I believe, is not so, but she 
speaks the native language as a matter of dig- 
nity. 

Enquired for letters, of Bishop and Company 
this morning ; they tell me that probably my 
letters have been sent on to Hilo, as a very im- 
portant resident of Hilo bears my name ; hope to 
see the native ''Hula-Hula" dance this week, 



32 Sounds From Home and 

and do not know when we will go to the volcano, 
probably not for several weeks. Dr. McGrew 
has a fine painting of the wonderful crater of 
Kilauea ; leave in a few minutes to take the 
stage for Waikiki. 

Since writing the above rode by stage to 
Punahon : such beauty of nature I have not seen 
before; passed numberless cottages, driving for 
an hour through a wealth of tropical foliage ; 
now and then a white picket fence covered with 
a magnificent hibiscus. We passed Chinese and 
children, and Kanakas riding horses ; bunches 
of flowers and peacock feathers on their heads. 
The whole country about us was like a perpetual 
picnic, with the hills and the extinct volcano in 
the background, from 3,000 to 8,000 feet high, 
and on the other hand the broad Pacific stretch- 
ing away to the horizon ; I cannot describe it. 
It cannot be sketched, nor taken into a painting, 
but I cannot but think if these were only within 
the reach of the people from the States, it is my 
opinion that no place under the sun could equal 
this as a health resort ; thermometer varying 
from 65° to 78°, no enervation in the air. It can 
well be called the 'Taradise of the Pacific." 

I told you of attending five o'clock service 




KAPIOLANI 



\ 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 83 

Sunday, yesterday and the day before, and in 
addition to occupying the King's pew, I made 
use of his prayer book. The foot-stool was 
embroidered with *^E ka haku e aloha mai." I 
shall send some photos of the people, etc. 

I mentioned having been presented to Queen 
Kapiolani. In the corner of the room where 
she sat the other evening were tall staffs with a 
bunch of silk feathers at the top, called' 'kohela," 
emblem of royalty. The women all have very 
good figures, carry themselves well, and are 
usually barefooted, and I have written you of 
their mode of dress. 

Lunched today with Mr. Bishop at the club. 
Honolulu citizens are very hospitable. I under- 
stand from the collector of customs that a mail 
goes tomorrow by sail. Dr. Andrews was born 
in the Hawaiian Islands. His father was one 
of the missionaries here fifty years ago, conse- 
quently he meets many friends. We propose to 
purchase horses and make the Island of Oahu 
on horseback, and think it would be very enjoy- 
able. In this way we can take our time and see 
more. 

Was presented also to Mrs. Judd, wife of the 
Chief Justice, at the Governor's levee. Tomorrow 



34 Sounds From Home, 

(Sunday) I shall try to take in all the churches 
— Chinese, Kanakas, and all; walked past our 
old quarantine cottage today. Passengers from 
the ^' Zelandia " are there now. 

The streets are narrow; sidewalks also. Peo- 
ple walk anywhere, street or sidewalk. Stores 
are small and served by half-caste and Chinese 
clerks. Chinese are very prevalent here; all I 

house servants are Chinese, I 

\ 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM. 

The soft trade winds 
Unfurled my country's flag, 
Where waved the palm 
And dusky minstrels sang. 

Hawaiian Hotel, Honolulu, Feb. 22, '88. 
Aloha ! Loyal to my country and loyal to my 
home, I seat myself to write how pleasantly I 
have spent the time for the past few days. At- 
tended 9:30 services (called ^'first congrega- 
tion.") This is the mission, with choir of eight 
Kanaka boys in surplices ; after which I passed 
out into the large yard filled with beautiful 
trees and found the people gathered for the 
second congregation, at 11 :15. This is the 
regular parish and made up of English and 
Germans; no Kanakas; and I stood looking at 
the queer sights, Chinese families, children, and 
all so beautifully dressed in rich fabrics, the 
Sisters of Charity in charge of the school and the 
orphans, the Kanaka men and women, the half- 



35 



86 Sounds From Home and 

breeds, the stone church and the palace and the 
shade of the beautiful trees. 

The Bishop in his cassock and knee-breeches 
crossed the yard to the school ; stopped to bid 
me welcome ; had noticed me in the church as a 
stranger, probably. After a pleasant chat with 
him of several minutes, he gave me the transla- 
tion of the text on the foot-stool of the king's 
pew in church. It is '^Lord have mercy (or 
love) towards me," (literal translation.) I went 
into church again to hear the regular service. 
Rev. Mr. Wallace, a fine looking man with good 
voice and manner, conducted a service just like 
ours. Very simple. The choir consisted of a 
chorus of men and women, and there were 
some very good voices. A different organist 
played; played very well on an organ of twenty 
stops. 

After dinner, while smoking at the hotel 
with my friends, Mr. Wallace came over to see 
me. I found him very pleasant and jolly. He 
w^as formerly of Milwaukee, Wisconsin. He 
knew Bishops Armitage and Worthington, and 
Doctor Brown; also many others. We had a 
very pleasant visit and in the evening visited the 
old Kanaka church; a church built of stone and 



Echoes of a Kingdom. 87 

concrete. No organ but a large Kanaka choir. 
I was struck with the sweetness of their voices 
and curious music, and, by the way, yesterday 
found some books of music and sent them by 
mail. One of the doctor's missionary friends 
called for him and took him to drive. 

Doctor Noyes and I were smoking and loung- 
ing under the trees in the yard of the hotel 
when Mr. C. R. Bishop, the banker, drove up in 
his carriage and invited us to drive. We visited 
the Kamehameha home for boys, the Emma Hos- 
pital and the Lunalilo home for old men, and a 
more picturesque and beautiful sight I 
do not expect to see than those landscapes on 
the way, the beauty of which you can scarcely 
imagine. The mountains and ocean, the endless 
number of lovely cottages with large and well- 
kept grounds, and as I have told you before, 
the wealth of beautiful foliage and flowers 
that I cannot give you any idea of. Doors and 
windows all open ; verandas everywhere, a sort 
of universal daily picnic. The people seem to 
act as if constantly at a summer resort, general 
air of a pleasant time. Riding on horseback, 
driving in carriages. Kanaka men mounted on 
sorry looking nags, wearing wreaths of flowers 
in their hats ; summer aspect over all. 



38 Sounds From Home and 

There is an interesting story concerning Mrs. 
Bishop, wife of the weli-known resident here; 
a native of royal descent, she was sought in 
marriage by King Kamehameha V at the same 
time Mr. Bishop was courting her. She refused 
the king, who w^ould have made her a queen, 
and married Mr. Bishop; she was a very charit- 
able and noble woman. At King Kamehameha 's 
death he was still unmarried, and retaining his 
love and admiration for her, sent for her and 
offered her the succession to the throne, which 
she refused, and the king refusing to name a 
successor, the next king was elected; viz.. King 
Lunalilo, whose reign was a short one. When 
Mrs. Bishop died, a few years ago, she left a 
large amount of property to the Kamehameha 
schools; one for boys and one for girls. The 
first is now running. Mr. Bishop has the dispo- 
sition of the funds for the second. I learned 
much of its history from a gentleman whom I 
accompanied to a meeting of the Social Science 
Club, held at Mr. Castle's on Monday evening. 
This is a club made up of the brains of the 
town, where they discuss topics of science, etc., 
and I think it would be hard to find a party of 
twenty-four men better informed on high litera- 
ture and more cultivated than I saw there. 



Echoes of a Kingdom. 39 

An opportunity offered for a very pleasant 
conversation with the Judge of the Supreme 
Court, Judge Judd. I met his wife, you re- 
member, at the Governor's levee. 

The President of Oahu college invited Dr. A. 
and myself to go out yesterday and stay at the 
college for a week. Dr. A. accepted, but I 
declined, having another engagement. Yester- 
day morning was occupied in looking for books 
in the native language. Received calls from 
some of our old quarantine friends yesterday 
afternoon, who are staying at Waikiki. Re- 
ceived also an invitation from Mr. Castle to 
dine with himself and family. Mr. Castle is 
one of the oldest wdiite residents, a charming 
host and gentleman. They live in a very pretty 
cottage. 

One of the staple articles of food here is a 
root called taro. It resembles somewhat a sweet 
potato, and is cooked in various ways. The 
interior is of a grayish color, and is served 
regularly on the table as potatoes are with us. 
The people are yqyj fond of it. The great 
native dish made from this is called ^'poi." In 
one of our rides w^e saw the place where the 
Chinese were taking it out of the inside of the 



40 Sounds From Home and 

taro plant, mixing it with water and putting it 
in a long trough. The makers sit at each end 
of the trough, and have a large iron pestle with 
which they beat the mixture for hours until it 
is a gray looking mass the consistency of jelly. 
It is then put in barrels and allowed to ferment. 
The natives eat it from a bowl, by dipping in 
their forefinger and carrying it to their mouths. 
It is served generally in sauce plates with sugar 
sprinkled over it, and eaten with spoons. 

After dinner we sat on the veranda and 
smoked and talked, (think of this, on February 
22nd.) as the band came up to the hotel grounds ; 
I then remembered the morning paper stated 
they were to play for the U. S. Minister. We 
had noticed him at the table the day before: 
he occupies one of the cottages on the grounds 
near the hotel. I lighted my cigar and strolled 
over to the grounds; found the U. S. Minister, 
Mr. Merrill, and his wife seated on the veranda 
and the band of thirty-three pieces drawn up in 
front with their stands and music. There was 
also a large flower bed with a flagstaff in the 
centre, from which floated my country's flag in 
the soft trade wind. 

Seated in a large easy chair for an hour or 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 41 

more I listened to the most charming band 
music. Members of the band were all fine look- 
ing natives ; they had a magnificent set of 
silver instruments, and the leader told me that 
these young band members had all been picked 
up by him and taught in five years. They 
receive a regular salary from the treasury, and 
Mr. Berger is a fine leader. They were so 
pleased with my enthusiasm that they gave me 
two of their native choruses with accompani- 
ment of four saxophones, effective and charming. 
The voices were very sweet and in perfect tune, 
and the songs were very peculiar. Their ^o^ 
pourris were excellent, and I became very tender- 
hearted as I heard the soft melodies of ^ 'Robin 
Adair" and '^Auld Lang Syne." 

When the serenade ended Mr. Merrill gave 
each boy a good cigar and a bottle of beer, and 
invited us into the house for a bottle of wine. 
I ventured a few remarks, all of which were 
well received. All this happened on the 22nd 
of February, v/ith a soft warm air blowing, 
filled with the fragrance of flowers, doors and 
windows open, where a white duck suit and 
straw hat seems the proper thing. I suppose 
you were ringing for your factotum just now to 



42 ' Sounds From Home, 

throw on more coal in that exasperating furnace. 
I will interrupt my letter to get ready to go 
out to the U. S, S. ^^Vandalia." The officers 
give a reception today and we have invitations. 
I had intended taking the steamer to Waikiki 
for a sea bath, but the concert, etc., have made 
me late, so I will, perhaps, go up to-night and 
bathe by moonlight. 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM. 

February 24th, 1888. 

Noticing by the paper this morning that a 
mail goes by sail tomorrow, I must finish this 
and -send it on its way. I went, as I told you, 
out to the flag ship '^Yandalia" on the 22nd. 
Boats manned by the sailors came to the pier 

% to convey the guests out to the ship. Once 

aboard the ''Yandalia, " we were taken in charge 
by the oflflcers and royally entertained. It was 
indeed a fine sight, this beautiful harbor with 
its ships of different countries at anchor, colors 
flying, stationed here and there. 

Aboard the ^'Vandalia" the guns had been 
removed aft, everything covered with bunting 
and canvas and the decks were strewn with 

^ some sort of material to prevent slipping. The 

Hawaiian band furnished the music, and there 
were officers in sufficient numbers from the two 
ships to give the ladies of the party all the 
dancing they cared for. Not wishing to dance, 

43 



I 






44 Sounds From Some and 

I enjoyed very much chatting with those I knew 
while taking in the novel sight around me. The 
''Vandalia" carries two hundred and sixty men ; 
they gathered in groups forward looking on, 
and all very jolly; among the officers aboard I 
met Major Elliot, who was a member of our 
quarantine. Met also Captain Dyer, of the U. 
S. S. * 'Marion, " also Captain Schoonmaker, of 
the ^^Yandalia." Thus ended the charming 
and novel experience. The next day took the 
the 9:30 stage for Waikiki, a beautiful 
beach, the noted bathing resort; charming 
Waikiki, where one can bathe for hours 
without chill, or watch the natives apparently 
in their native element swimming, diving or float- 
ing on the undulating long lazy swell of the 
ocean. Here I took my first ocean bath; after 
bathing I spent the afternoon watching the 
Kanakas in the water and walking about the 
little town ; saw some picturesque cottages and 
grounds; certainly one can lead an ideal life 
here. Returned home in the evening by stage; 
found the band playing near the hotel grounds, 
a pretty sight. Ladies and gentlemen on horse- 
back; many of the ladies ride astride, wearing 
trousers or divided skirts ; this does not seem 



Echoes of a Kingdom. 45 

strange here; one becomes accustomed to curious 
sights and scenes, and I now pay little attention 
to customs or fashions that seemed very odd to 
me at first. I missed my opportunity of seeing 
the Hula dance, but I send by mail photos which 
will probably give you an idea of it ; one card 
contains view of palace with King and Queen 
in the foreground watching the dancers ; quite 
a festive scene; the Queen dressed in ''Holoku," 
or Mother Hubbard fashion. Shades of departed 
dreams of vrell dressed women; could one ever 
endure the sight of a Mother Hubbard, were it 
donned even by a queen in all her glory ? Aloha. 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM. 

Honolulu, Friday, Feb. 29th, 1888. 

Once more seated in the writing room of the 
hotel to tell of our goings and comings. I do 
not remember exactly where I left off in my last 
one, but think the last date vv^as the 24th. On 
that day went up to the college, where we pro- 
cured horses for our ride around the Island of 
Oahu. Went for a ride up the Manoa Valley, 
und dined with the students. As there was a 
piano, Mrs. H. played for me two of Choi3in's 
Nocturnes, and then by special request played 
Gottschalk's '^Last Hope," my favorite. 

On our ride to charming Manoa Valley, picked 
limes by the wayside; a very delightful ride 
altogether, but was very lame when I dismounted 
after a ten mile ride. The president of the col- 
lege accompanied us ; the horses belonged to the 
boys attending school. They ride to the college, 
and tying a tethering rope to the horses' necks, 
let them run loose. The man is very poor here 

46 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 47 

who has not a horse in his dooryard. They do 
not build barns or stables; a shed is the best 
they have, and a large majority none at all. 

I visited the home of Rev. Dr. H., one of the 
teachers of the mission school, a fine looking 
gray-haired man, and there found a meeting of 
the '* Cousins' Society," the descendants of the 
missionaries, where papers and letters were read 
by the members; not as interesting to me, how- 
ever, as to the doctor; he being a descendant of 
the missionaries, enjoyed it very much. A num- 
ber of native boys sang their native chorus. ^t¥e 
returned home by moonlight. 

On Sunday afternoon last I took a carriage 
and went to see Mr. Berger, the band master. 
Found him seated at table v/ith coffee and cigars 
after dinner. Mr. Berger showed me some new 
pieces he had arranged for his boys to sing, and 
promised I should have them before leaving for 
home. 

Last night v/e had the most severe storm of 
thunder and lightning that has been known 
here for fifteen j^ears; fifteen inches of rain fell 
in less than forty-eight hours. Called on the 
American Minister during the storm; waited 
for a cessation, and finally had to almost swim 



48 Sounds From Home and 

back to my quarters. Some of our party took 
steamer this mornin 2: for the volcano. On ac- 
count of the storm we will postpone our tour on 
horseback over the Island until Friday. 

Visited the gov3rnment building today and 
received full information as to our ride over the 
Island. The steamerBelgic was sighted, and know- 
ing there would be mail for us, delayed starting 
until the mail had been brought ashore, fumi- 
gated, etc. I received my mail, and our horses 
and trappings were made ready. By the way, 

they would make a sorry sight on Avenue, 

as they are undersized and ungroomed, with big 
Mexican saddles, our necessary luggage in rolls 
of oil cloth tied on before and behind with 
leather strings. We wore big spurs. My horse 
was brown, %vith long tail, not unlike a horse 
the cowboys ride, and every horse always has a 
long rope coiled around his neck. I lashed mine 
to the saddle bovv^ with the strings. The name 
of my nag was " Topsy," and Dr. A's, '^ Snip." 
A fine riding-horse such as you see at home 
could not be guided or ridden where we ventured, 
nor could possibly have done the work of these 
animals. 

Jt was some time before I could learn to ride 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 49 

my horse easily , although I am a good horseman. 
There is but one rein used and a heavy curb 
bit, and the rein is never used except to press 
against the side of the neck. I at first naturally 
pulled the rein to stop a gallop. The result was 
a break-up that nearly threv^^ me over his head. 
You balance yourself on the saddle and use the 
spurs. Before the trip was ended, however, I 
managed everything very well. We started 
Friday about three o'clock and stopped at 
Bishop & Company's for the mail, and I put my 
letters in my pocket for leisure reading when we 
should stop for the night. 

Our afternoon ride was only about eleven miles 
to Ev/a, w here we found our host ; his wife is the 
daughter of a native chief named le and 
inherits from her father a large number of acres 
of land, which her husband is improving and 
which makes him very rich. The property lies 
along the Pearl Eiver, which, as you may have 
noticed, has been granted to the United States 
for a coaling station. Their house, a pretty 
cottage, is hidden in a grove of trees. Yfe had 
a supper of fish, taro, poi, and native oysters. I 
make a pretense of liking these things; I do not, 



50 Sounds From Home and 

however, but manage to make a good meal v/ith 
coffee, bread, meat and rice. 

After a comfortable rest and smoke we were 
shown to our room which was one of the straw 
houses detached, the side and roof of straw 
fastened to bamboo; no walls inside. Pegs stuck 
into the bamboo to hang our clothes on. Mats 
on the floor. It was clean and neat. I would 
on no account sleep in one of the real native 
huts. 

We mounted our horses before breakfast and 
rode over to the rice fields, and to the artesian 
well which he is boring. They have fine water 
in this section. After breakfast vre packed up 
and made a start, our host and his v/ife accom- 
panying us. She v/as dressed in a dark waist 
and skirt with trousers strapped down, and 
rode aside. It was as much as we could do to 
keep up, as we were a little lamed after a gal- 
lop of three miles over the grassy hills. They 
left us at the big gulch. We rode down into 
it, and they sat on their horses on the bluff 
above, vratching us, until they looked to us as 
small as children and their horses the size of 
sheep. A wild, rocky ride for ten miles up 
and do\vn among the mountains, and then we 



i^ 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 51 

found a place for lunch, procured water from a 
trickling stream and took out a can of potted 
ham and some hard tack, of which our meal 
consisted. We unsaddled the horses and 
tethered them to a tree with fifty feet of rope. 
Here we rested for an hour or so, then mounted 
and rode on. The scenery changed as we 
approached the plateau on the other side of the 
islands on top of the mountain; here we were 
on a vast plain stretching out in all directions 
for miles. 

The soft trade winds from the Pacific blow- 
ing gently, and our horses galloping, not a soul 
in sight ; few cattle or any animals seen. About 
three P. M. we came to the edge where a descent 
begins and we could see the blue ocean stretch- 
ing away in the distance and the surf breaking 
on the shore miles before us, the white- houses 
of Waialua just discernible among the foliage. 

About four o'clock we drew up at the cottage 
of Mrs. Emerson. She lives here with her son, 
who is a bachelor. She is eighty-two years 
old, the widow of Rev. John S. Emerson, one of 
the first missionaries. They made us welcome, 
and we remained here until Wednesday. Sun- 
day I attended church, w^here service was held 



52 Sounds From Home and 

by a native preacher. Of course, it was all 
Kanaka, but I could follow it in a translated 
edition. After the sermon the presiding deacon 
went to the table and the people were called 
upon for their monthly contribution. I walked 
up and laid down my piece of coin and felt 
myself entitled to a seat. The people were all 
natives or half white. Not over fifty in the 
church, where once thousands attended. The 
choir was made up of about six young women 
and about as many young men. The hymns, 
were on pages 287, 181, and 121, and I think 
they used the same book I mailed. After 
church the people held a meeting to discuss 
whether they should accept the resignation of 
Rev. Tunnalao. He has a daughter who is a 
leper, and he wished to go with her to Molokai 
to care for her. They refused to accept it; but 
I understand he went the next da v. The fol- 
lowing da}^ we rode over to a sugar plantation. 
I witnessed the whole process from the cutting 
of the cane in the field to the wheeling in big 
crates with six oxen to the mill, the crushing of 
the cane, the passing of the juice through the 
the various pans and boilers, and finally watched 
the falling of the granulated mass into the pans ; 



Echoes of a Kingdom. 53 

when properly boiled the mass is turned off in 
tubs, carried to the centrifugals, (a tank with 
perforated sides revolving very rapidly,) the 
molasses forced through the sides and the sugar, 
of a lia^ht brown color, dried and thrown into a 
bin for bagging and shipping, all done within 
three or four hours. It was indeed very inter- 
esting. The rice fields have to be kept under 
water, and all this irrigating and work is done 
by the Chinese. 

The fields of rice are very picturesque as the 
Chinese work them. The different coloring of 
the fields and the queer straw hats they wear 
make them look like the little Chinese pictures 
we see very often. They are very patient and 
industrious. They get two crops a year off the 
land. The natives do more in cultivating taro, 
the native food. This is a large leaved plant 
and requires to be under water also. You see 
native men black as negroes working in the 
black mud among the taro plants, and you meet 
ponies on the road loaded with it jogging from 
one place to another without a driver or any- 
body with them. 

At Waialua we passed a few very pleasant 
days, and started Wednesday morning in com- 



54 Sounds From Home and 

pany with Dr. M., a young physician, along 
the beach. Mountains on one side and the sea 
on the other. Eemains of old stone houses and 
fences all along the route. We turned oif at 
one point and rode into a stone enclosure to see 
the fish god, a rough stone idol. The road lay 
along the coast and we found the quicksands 
at Waimea all safe. They are very dangerous 
at times. About ten miles we managed to 
climb into a glen with rock on both sides to 
partake of our lunch. There was a river here 
and two native women were hunting for native 
oysters around the abutments of the bridge, and 
little naked children were tumbling in the black 
mud. The elder of the women came up to us 
and as near as we could make out, wanted us to 
go over to her house. The younger one also 
approached us. Neither one was over-dressed. 
Did not accept, however ; we were due at Ma- 
keo, where we were to spend the night on a 
ranch, the owner of which has been on the 
island for about thirty years. He married a 
native wife and has thirteen children. I found 
she could not speak English. She did not 
appear at supper, but we saw her at breakfast. 
The children are fine looking young men and 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 55 

girls, mulatto color. Have four daughters 
married to white men. 

Although lame from our ride, we awakened 
rested and refreshed. Rode up a little valley 
or glen in the mountains and saw the lair of the 
hog god. The way these native horses would 
climb great hills over big stones, and ford 
streams all full of great boulders, was truly 
wonderful. At first I could not help being a 
little nervous as to what would happen if the 
horse should fall; but they do not fail. They 
would step carefully from one stone to another, 
sometimes a leg would slip down and you would 
think you w^ere gone, but they know better than 
the riders themselves. They climb up banks 
that a man could scarcely scale. 

We left Lane ranch on Thursday morning and 
reached the other side of the Pali mountain 
about two o'clock, and rather than stay so near 
home at a sugar plantation, decided to climb the 
historic Pali and come through ; and such a 
climb! On the other side was Honolulu. The 
road is steeper than a pair of stairs and paved 
with boulders, large and small. It is about a 
mile from top to bottom, and after having rid- 
den about twenty-five miles, w^e were repaid by 



56 Sounds From Home and 

the magnificent view. We were some time 
climbing it. I felt sorry for my horse; it was 
hard work and I am pretty heavy, so I dis- 
mounted and led him a little way ; I wanted 
to stop and rest him ; and thus we finally reached 
the top. The road is about eighteen feet in 
width in some places, and in others narrower, a 
precipitous cliff at the side ; at the top, you 
look off into the ocean and see on each side 
ranges of mountains ; the sight is indeed glori- 
ous from the heights of historic Pali, a battle 
ground of a Kamehameha. 

From this point we rode down the beautiful 
valley of Nuuano into town, which is as charm- 
ing and line a ride as can be imagined, with the 
harbor of Honolulu before you and a smooth 
level road, high foliage-covered hills, through a 
valley of tropical trees, arriving at the hotel at 
5:30, feeling well and none the worse for wear; 
in fact I could have ridden twenty miles farther, 
a tough looking individual, however; neverthe- 
less on arriving at hotel, our friends came out 
and envied us the sun-burned hands and faces 
and the '^cowboy" look they accused me of. 
We felt very heroic and superior ; we had rid- 
den around the island on horse-back. Thus 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 57 

ended a ride that in my opinion cannot be 
equaled in the world in variety of scenery and 
interesting features; a panorama of hills and 
valleys-', gulches, grottoes, glens, grassy plains, 
beach and blue ocean. We shall go to Hawaii 
Monday and make the volcano trip ; our friends 
made the trip in a rain storm, could not wait for 
the v^^eather to clear. The crater of Kilauea is 
one of the grandest sights in the world, there- 
fore could not be missed through stress of 
weather ; we may stop off at Hilo and take horses 
for the volcano trip; we are undecided, however. 
There is a mail ia next v\^eek, but we shall be 
away and it will be forwarded to us at Hilo, 
Hawaii. 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM. 

HAWAII NEI. 

Hawaii uei— isles where the Muses dwell! 
Isles where Parnassian whispers ever tell 
There's sweetest music in thy ev'ry mood; 
'Tis voiced in lava field and tangled wood, 
On dreary plain, each peak of stony mail, 
In crater's pit, each shy, retreating vale. 

Waimea, Hawaii, March 15th, 1888. 

We are in the heart of Hawaii, and where I 
sit the lofty peaks of Mauna-Ioa and Mauna-kea 
are in full view, fourteen thousand feet high, 
within 1800 feet of the highest Alps; this Island 
is traversed by other ranges, which give to the 
coast a most picturesque appearance. As I 
write, hov/ever, the tips, and far down the sides 
of the mountains are obscured by clouds. I 
wrote you on our return from horseback ride 
around Oahu ; I mentioned band concerts at the 
hotel grounds, etc. That same evening Mr. 
Y. called on me ; he was formerly organist in St. 
John's Church. He is choir master of St. An- 
drew's Cathedral. Lunched at the club with 

58 



JEchoes of a Kingdom, 59 

Rev. Mr. Wallace, Mr. Paty and others. Spent 
the rest of the day very quietly ; also a very 
pleasant evening with Captain Dyer, of the U. 
S. S. ^'Marion," and Captain Kempf, of the U. 
S. S. ^^Adams." 

On Sunday I mailed the music of Berger's 
*^ Aloha C3," a very simple thing like all the 
pieces they sing, but it is very melodious as sung 
by a chorus of twenty-iive natives. That night 
I went to Mr. Castle's for tea, one of the mis- 
sionary residents who is very polite and hos- 
pitable to strangers. On Monday vv^e prepared 
for our trip to Hawaii, and at three o'clock went 
to the steamer "• Kinau, ' ' a very fine little steamer 
lighted by electricity, with all the modern im- 
provements. The scene at the dock, as we stood 
on the upper deck waiting, was very picturesque. 
The natives are very simple hearted. The cus- 
tom seems to be to decorate departing friends 
with what they call ^4eis" (lays.) They are 
long bands or Vv^reaths, made sometimes of 
feathers or shells, but generally green leaves or 
flowers. These are hung from the neck or 
wound around hats. The one hundred or more 
dark faces, the many colored ''lays," the crying 
men, women and children embracing and walk- 



60 Sounds From Home and 

ing about hand in hand was very curious, and 
it was a novel sight. One couple attracted my 
particular attention. The man evidently was 
taking his departure. His strav/ hat was loaded 
with ''lays" of flowers, and several more hung 
around his neck. The woman, dressed in the 
usual gay-colored "holuku (native Mother Hub- 
bard) and the usual flat brimmed straw hat, stood 
in the midst of the crov/d crying and wiping her 
eyes with a not over-clean handkerchief, their 
arms around each other, once in a while kissing 
each other, the sympathizing crowd of friends 
standing about. Again some one else would go 
up and kiss hini, and all look sorrovvful, and no- 
body seemed to think it strange. They kept up 
the parting until the gang plank was drawn in, 
then both came on board the irteamer; the wo- 
man, a large black native, stepped ashore again, 
and standing on the edge of the dock began 
what seemed to be the final parting. He handed 
her a cigarette, she struck a match, lighted it 
and took a few puffs and then handed it back to 
him, and as long as they could reach each other 
they exchanged smokes, and wiped their weep- 
ing eyes. 

The usual man who is ''always late" was on 



Echoes of a Kingdom. 61 

hand and was tossed on board and his bundle 
pitched after him. His hat, a good straw one, 
was lost overboard, but with a worthy desire to 
save it one of the Kanakas took a dive and swam 
out and captured it and bore it triumphantly 
back to the deck. 

These natives are the greatest water dogs in 
the woild, and as much at home in the water as 
a fish. Some of the stories of their power of en- 
durance in swimming are astonishing. One, 
well vouched for, is about a boatload of them 
being capsized between the islands and swim- 
ming to the nearest shore, a distance of twenty- 
eight miles. The sea is alvf ays choppy and rough 
in the channel. Beginning to feel a little 
uncomfortable, and in the light of past expe- 
rience, I concluded to *^go below." Laid 
myself quickly down on my bed and remained 
there. My companion came in looking very 
brave, anticipating none of my trouble. He 
sought his writing paper with rather a superior 
air, but in about ten minutes came back again a 
'different man and tumbled into his bunk with 
that don't-care expression that goes with such 
condition. 

About eight o'clock in the morning we found 



i 



62 Sounds From Home and 



I 

ourselves sailing along the Island of Hawaii < 



with the great mountains of Mauna-loa and 
Mauna-kea in close view. We ran into the harbor 
of Mahukona, where for three hours we watched 
the natives taking oif freight. One must remem- 
ber that on these eight islands there is only one 
port where vessels can come up to the dock, and 
that, of course, is Honolulu, Everywhere else 
passengers and all kinds of freight are taken oif 
in boats. The steamers carry very large heavy 
boats, and they have to battle v/ith surf and 
heavy seas. A horse was taken aboard. He 
was led into the vfater and towed, swimming 
along with the tide, being careful to keep his 
nose above water, and on reaching the steamer 
ropes were put about him and hitched to the 
steam derrick, and before the horse knew where 
he was he was dangling in the air and plumped 
on deck. 

After stopping at Mahukona we steamed on 
about ten miles into the bay of Kawaihae, where 
we were to land. We could only see a few 
small houses ; (you must not suppose because a 
place has a name it is a town.) The steamer 
was anchored and v/e were put into one of the 
small boats and rowed ashore. We could not 



■R 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 63 

quite reach the shore, so the na^tives pulled the 
boat as near as they could and I stood up on 
the bow and when the waves went out jumped 
for the beach. Timed it w^rong, however, land- 
ing in the water, the consequence being a good 
ducking; such things do not count here. The 
natives are all barefoot. The doctor was picked 
up by a stalwart native and carried dry to shore. 

We expected to find two horses here from 
Mrs. Lyons, of ¥/aimea ; but they were not on 
hand, and as wx found no natives w^ho could 
speak English, w^ere obliged to await the turn 
of events. There were tv\^elve miles of up-hill 
riding before us before we could reach our 
lodgings that night. Presently a native handed 
me a letter from Mrs, Lyons saying to go to 
John Parker's place, (a half w^hite) and w^ait. 

So the men again took us in the boat and 
tovf ed us across the harbor to the seaside cottage 
of John Parker, who has a large ranch on the 
island. He w^elcomed us cordially, gave us 
clean water, towels, etc., everything neat and 
clean, and we waited for our horses. His wife, 
a large dark native woman, was seated under a 
cocoanut tree surrounded with native men and 
women servants talking and doing nothing. 



64 Sounds From Home and 

The native women of her kind seem never to 
lose their taste for their own people and seem to 
have no pride in dress or appearance. All the 
men and women seem to be on good terms with 
their mistress, and she looked no more favored 
than the others, except that she sat in a straw 
chair, while the others sat on the stone wall or 
on the ground. 

Mr. Parker asked us if we would like a drink 
of cocoanut milk. One of the natives walked 
up to a tree in the grove and procured some ripe 
cocoanuts, which v/ere opened for us and v^^e each 
drank a pint of delicious cool milk : fancy this 
on a warm day by the seashore ! The doctor 
took out his camera and photographed the 
group; there seemed to be some anxiety amoDg 
the young women to secure good places, and one 
very good looking young woman took off her 
hat, I presume to show her head of black glossy 
hair, black as an Indian's. 

About four o'clock the horses came and with- 
out saddles or bridles. After some trouble and 
a great deal of talking and questioning, we 
found saddle and bridle for one of our horses 
and made the boy who brought the horses give 
up his and ride back the twelve miles he had 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 65 

just come, bareback, with a rope in the horse's 
mouth for a bridle, making a twenty-four hours' 
ride for the youth. He did not seem to mind it 
at all, and on the way up he was about one half 
of the time standing up on his horse, or squat- 
ting on his haunches. 

There seems to be no '^tire out" to these peo- 
ple either in riding or sw^imming. We bade Mr. 
Parker good-bye and started up the mountains. 
My horse was lazy, and I was obliged to do a 
great deal of work wdth my large spur, as we 
were to ascend three thousand feet in twelve 
miles; we could not do more than walk ; road 
was fair, though rather rocky in some places. 
When we reached the plateau on which Waimea 
stands it was about dark, and we could not have 
kept the road but for the guidance of the boy. 

We reached Mrs. Lyons' about seven, and 
found them expecting us, having been ac- 
quainted by telephone of our coming. The 
telephone is much used on the islands, there 
being no telegraph, and the arrival of a visitor 
is telephoned on before. I was somewhat tired, 
and after a good smoke turned in for a night's 
rest. 

Mrs. Lyons is a charming hostess, advanced 



66 Sounds From Home and 

in years. She lives here with her two unmar- 
ried daughters, and they have never been off 
the Islands. One of the daughters is post-mis- 
tress, and has a little school of native children. 
They lived until lately in a straw house ; part of 
it still remains. Mr. Lyons was the first mis- 
sionary and translated most of the hymns now 
in use in most of the churches. These three 
ladies live all alone. Have family worship 
morning and night. I took my turn at reading 
two verses from the Bible at a time, and one of 
the ladies read a hymn. I shall propose the 
singing of it. The air is cooler here than lower 
down the mountain and on the shore. We have 
engaged horses to carry us to Laupahoehoe on 
the coast ; about thirty-five miles from there we 
go to Hilo, the second largest town on the 
Islands, and from there we make the Volcano 
Kilauea. 

You may suppose yourself standing where I 
am now writing, on the veranda, looking across 
the grassy plain about twelve miles, dotted with 
little ravines and clumps of trees. Small en- 
closures of stone fence mark the homes of the 
ranch owner natives. Horses and cattle are 
grazing over the plain and the whole beautiful 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 67 

and green. In the distance are the great moun- 
tains Mauna-loa and Mauna-kea ; the snow lies 
deep on their summits. From Mauna-loa there 
was an outbreak and flow of lava some years 
ago, 1859. As Mrs. Lyons describes it, a red 
river of fire slowly moving to the sea, v/hich it 
reached in about tvv^o weeks. The latest flow 
and the active crater are on the other side of 
Mauna-loa, and the flow of lava in 1881 was 
toward Hilo. The crater of Kilanea that visi- 
tors make is toward Hilo and only about four 
thousand feet up the mountain side. The 
regular excursion is by boat from Honolulu. We 
shall probably go from Hilo by horse. The 
^'Vandalia" has gone to Hilo. Her oificers are 
to make the volcano in squads. We shall very 
likely meet them there. 

The language of the Islands consists in its 
construction, seemingly of a succession of 
vowels. For instance the numeral tw^enty-eight 
reads Kaiwakaluakumamawalu ; a long word, 
but very musical, rightly pronounced. The 
little hymn, *^ Jesus loves me," in Kanaka 
language is ''He aloha ko Jesu;" the chorus, 
" Keike aloha," last line, " Keike aloha. O, 
Jesu." 



68 Sounds From Home and 

I do not acquire much of the language, how- 
ever. I forgot to tell 3^ou that the day we 
left Honolulu the American Minister took a 
party of us to the palace, a large fine-looking 
building occupying a large square, with a high 
stone wall around it, gate on each side and 
native soldiers in w^hite on guard. We saw 
only the first floor, consisting of throne room 
forty to seventy feet square. Two thrones on a 
dais with drapery over them. A red carpet in 
the centre and red curtains over glass frames 
around the room, for the dl:fferent decorfttions 
belongings to the king. Rather plain furnish- 
ings, but all quite imposing. The room is large 
and hung with portraits of the royal family, 
Kamehameha I, Queen Emma, and others. On 
the other side of the hall is the reception room, 
handsomely furnished i;i blue. Back of it, with 
large folding doors, is the state dining room; 
the size of the room, the large silver epergnes 
and paintings of royal potentates make it an 
imposing room. There is a fine statue of Kame- 
hameha I in front of the government building. 
He is represented with a helmet and feather 
*'kohela," with malo (or girdle) and sandles on 
his feet : a grim smile on his face. That is all 



o 
> 

1 

pi 
o 
a 




Echoes of a Kingdom, 69 

he has on. The helmet is the old Grecian shape 
and made of feathers. I saw one in the museum, 
which Governor Dominis (Governor of Oahu) 
told me was worn by a high chief. The feath- 
ers w^ere small and laid on like scales of a fish. 
The original royal feather was yellow. Only 
two on a bird, and not to be found now. A 
curio shop in Honolulu has a ^4ay" (or band) 
made of them, for which they paid one hundred 
dollars. The Queen offered one hundred and 
fifty dollars for it, but they valued it higher. 
It is about tw^o feet long and tw^o inches wide. 
Must have our horses and outfit photographed 
before we finish our ride. In my last I sent a 
leaf and flower; the perfume may last. There 
are many fragrant flowers and leaves about us 
everywhere. 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM. 

Waimea, Hawaii, March 17th, 1888. 

In my last letter I forgot to mention a little 
incident attending our stay with Mrs. Lyons. I 
mentioned that one of her daughters is post- 
mistress, and the natives come up here for their 
mail. The family are also called upon to doctor 
the natives, who are very childish about sick- 
ness, and the little post-office room in the house 
is well supplied with medicine. As I write a 
burley Kanaka is telling his wants to Miss 
Elizabeth, who proceeds to pour out some doctor's 
stuff and give him directions. 

Apropos of doctoring, a very curious incident 
occurred the day before yesterday, and also 
proved very fortunate for one poor fellow. As 
we were lounging about and reading after dinner 
a request came from the coroner and police 
justice for the doctor to come over to the court- 
house and see about a man who had been 
poisoned. He went over and was gone about 

70 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 71 

two hours, and returned to Mrs. Lyons for 
some bottles and other things. It seems that a 
man, a Portuguese herder working for a man 
named Reeves, fell from his horse and died at 
once. He had had trouble with his employer, 
and was an important witness against him in a 
suit that was pending. Just before his death 
the man drank half a bottle of cold coffee, and 
every one at once said he was poisoned by 
Reeves. There was no doctor within twenty- 
five miles, so the coroner sent for Dr. A., who 
after making all possible inquiry decided to 
have a post mortem. Of course there were no 
surgical instruments at hand, so he proceeded 
to utilize the man's own cattle knife, an imple- 
ment the herders all carry, together with the 
steel for sharpening. The natives are very 
superstitious and nearly all left, the sheriff in- 
cluded. The doctor cut him open and discovered 
that death was caused by anuerism of the heart ; 
no doubt to the great relief of Reeves, who 
would otherwise have been arrested and dealt 
with summarily. They buried the dead man in 
some spot back of the old church. 

The original missionaries Vv^ho came out fifty 
years ago were very successful and converted 



72 Sounds From Home and 

many natives. The descendants of that gener- 
ation are not keeping it up to any extent, and 
churches that used to be packed, as for instance 
the one at Hilo holding five thousand people, is 
now almost deserted. The descendants of the 
missionaries do not continue as their fathers 
and mothers began. They have found places 
under the government,, also in trade, and today 
the leading merchants of Honolulu are of mis- 
sionary origin. King Kalal^auai was obliged, 
last July, to give the people a new constitution, 
though the monarchy was continued. There 
was a mass meeting at Honolulu (The Paris of 
the Islands) and a committee of thirteen formed 
to demand of the king the dismissal of Gibson, 
the Prime Minister. The city was under arms 
and things were serious. The king became 
frightened and gr£inted all they asked. After 
an election affairs passed into the hands of the 
reform party. In this the missionary element 
predominated. They are virtually in power. 
Some trouble is expected in May, when the 
legislature meets again. I do not know what 
will be the outcome of all this. Business is not 
prosperous here and there is great complaint; 
certainly not a very bright outlook for the future. 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 73 

Nothing can be expected from the natives. 
They are very lazy, good-natured people ; will 
not work as the Chinese and Portuguese do. 
Disease is carrying them off rapidly. Native 
population has decreased from 100,000 to 40,000 
within thirty or forty years. They must cer- 
tainly die out. A number of white men have 
married natives and nothing strange is thought 
of it. 

I shall probably visit Mr. Walbridge at his 
sugar plantation at Wailuku, Maui ; I met him 
at the hotel at Honolulu. Shall probably go 
there while Dr. Andrews visits his old home 
and looks up memories of childhood. 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM. 

" An emerald isle in a setting of gold ; 
With its city at rest by the sea," 

HiLo, Hawaii, Saturday, March 24, '88. 

A very interesting place, the second in im- 
portance on the Islands. My last letters were 
written a week or more ago, at Waimea, on the 
other side of the Island, and as I look at these 
great mountains on the other side, I think of 
Mrs. Lyons and her daughters, a little sadly, 
although they seem content and happy. They 
have never been off the Island and have no 
thought of ever seeing the world, or even a 
small part of its people. Their lives have been 
a continual sense of dutj^, but they seem to be 
content and happy. They are well read and well 
posted in missionary work. They read the 
Missionary Herald^ and tend and teach the few 
Kanakas around them. 

They were very kind ; they seem to enjoy the 
rarity of a visit from a stranger, and begged me 

74 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 75 

to stay longer. Therefore, I stayed until last 
Monday. One of the ladies brought out a box 
of old stamps and gave me some of her best 
samples. These I shall send home. She also 
brought me a little piece of white silk, a part of 
the royal robe of the great Queen of Kame- 
hameha I ; also peaceful Kapa material used in 
the earlier times for her infant wrappings ; it is 
made from wood. 

Just as we were about mounting our horses 
for the long ride, she also gave me a little book 
containing a map of the Islands and a little 
package addressed to you, which no doubt con- 
tains a number of curios from among her treas- 
ures. We had engaged our horses and a man 
to drive them back and they should have been 
on hand at eight o'clock; the weather had 
cleared finely and we were anxious to be off. 

Waimea is one of the cold spots and a driving 
mist of cloud, not quite rain, is usual there. 
The horses came about nine. The road was 
over a bleak plateau and the way was stormy 
and muddy. The few trees visible were devoid 
of foliage, they having been blighted by the 
grazing of the cattle. So for many a mile we 
rode, picking our way through the stony and 



76 Sounds From Home and 

muddy places. When we came to the approach 
of the descent on the other side the green 
trees and luxuriant foliage appeared again . We 
stopped to take a photograph of a rare tree. 
We were supplied with a pair of canvas saddle- 
bags, which were slung over the pommel, and 
the rubber coats and leggings were tied to the 
rings of the saddle in case it should rain. 

We reached the sugar plantation at 12:30; 
stopped at John Chinaman's for dinner, and 
then mounted again and rode up the coast a 
mile to see the magnificent valley Waipeo. 
This is an undulation in the coast half a mile 
wide, running back three or four miles, the bot- 
tom level and flat, covered with rice fields. 
Houses dotted here and there, all looking like 
a toy village, as you look from the bluff about 
1200 feet high into the valley. We descended 
by a zigzag road cut in the mountain side that 
looks no wider than a foot-path, very ston}^ and 
very steep ; perpendicular cliff on the left and a 
deep valley on the right. I went down only 
two-thirds of the way on my horse. He seemed 
to be afraid to go over the steep places, and I 
was quite tired with spurring and urging. He 
was not a good beast for this kind of work. 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 77 

Doctor kept on to the bottom of the cliff and 
took some photographs. While they were tak- 
ing the photos I lighted my pipe and threw my- 
self on the grass and let my horse graze, he 
having had nothing to eat all day. While I 
was resting here the schoolmaster joined me and 
we had a chat. Becoming tired, I mounted and 
rode back to the town and waited some time be- 
fore they returned. Meanwhile I learned that 
Mr. Horner, the planter, was expecting us. 
Judge Lyman having telephoned that we were 
coming. As the next stop was sixteen miles 
further on, I persuaded the Doctor that it was 
time to start. 

We rode out to this pretty cottage, where we 
were kindly received. He owns about one thous- 
and acres of sugar cane. Had a charming stay 
with Mr. and Mrs. Horner; such hospitality I 
shall never forget. We mounted again, and 
after a hard ride of sixteen miles up one side of 
the gulch and down the other, a steep and stony 
route brought us to Honaka, Mr. Lyman's ranch. 
We passed a steep gulch, as they call them here. 
They are really indentations in the cliff, opening 
gradually to the ocean and running back quite a 



78 Sounds From Home and ^ 

I 

little distance, and the descent is an}^ where 1 

from 200 to 500 feet. 

We met Mr. L^^man on the road and reached ) 

his home a little after noon. He is a very fine I 

looking white man with white hair and mous- : 

taclie. His native wife came out on the porch 
to greet us. Her voice is soft and she is polite 
and polished. She wore the inevitahle ''holoku." 
They have thirteen children, ten of v>'hom are 
living. Three or four little people were at the 
table, they have the Caucasian of the father. 
They have prayers, attended by children and all. 
About seven o'clock every evening Mr. L. con- 
ducts this service, plajdng the melodian. Mr. 
L. brought out some native soBgs and we sang. 
Y^e rode to a couple of sugar mills, which occu- 
pied a part of the afternoon, and then had a 
good night's rest in a pleasant room on the first 
floor. We took some photographs of the house 
and f c)miiy. Mr. L. has recently been appointed 
a judge. We were off at 8 :30 for Laupahoehoe, 
up and down gulches. At the bottom of one big 
one we found a group of Kanakas resting their 
horses. As the doctor took their photographs, 
they became interested. One man explained to 
another that one of us was a doctor. One of 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 79 

the older ones sent a boy to the house for his 
mother, who was suffering with a tumor. She 
came and squatted down in a most phlegmatic 
manner. Doctor examined it, and through one 
of the men told her husband that nothing could 
be done for her, medicine no good, and if the 
knife was used it would kill her. They took the 
information stolidly. She reached out to her 
husband for his pipe and began smoking, not a 
word of comment at her death warrant. 

We reached Laupahoehoe, where we expected 
to take a boat for Hilo, and found it was a day 
late ; so as our contract for horses was out, our 
man started back at once and we settled down 
to spend a day at the port of Laupahoehoe, wliere 
we expected to take the steamer ''Kinau" and go 
on to Hilo, a distance of about thirty miles. We 
therefore started out to find lodgings for our 
unexpected stay, there being no taverns of any 
kind for the accommodation of strangers. We 
made the acquaintance of the manager of the 
sugar jaills, and with his help found a native 
woman with a Scotch husband who would give 
us a room, so we scattered for a time to look 
over the place. It is at the foot of cliffs 500 or 
600 feet high, having the only safe little harbor 



80 Sounds From Home and 

where they can load sugar, and has become the 
landing place for boats. They were loading a 
small steamer with sugar, so I liid myself down 
on a grassy knoll and watched the Kanakas 
work. They do it wiih a rush. The sugar is 
all put up at the mills in bags of one hundred 
pounds. These are piled on the dock from the 
warehouse and the boats come from the steamer; 
heavy large boats each manned with five natives, 
bags pitched in and rowed out. As I have said 
before, the natives are regular water dogs and 
pull these immense boats with five tons of 
sugar in and out through the surf. It was very 
quiet that day, but sometimes the boats are 
swamped ; this the natives care nothing for, as 
they cannot be drowned, but it wets the sugar. 
The sugar as shipped from the mill is of a 
light brown color. Very nice, and except that 
the U. S. tariff prevents its entry above a cer- 
tain degree of whiteness, could be washed 
through the centrifugals to a color as white as 
our coffee sugar and sent into the market with- 
out going to a refinery. One of the sugar boilers 
showed us some. The sugar after granulating 
is poured into centrifugals, which are about as 
large as washtubs, double, the inner one revolving 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 81 

with great rapidity, and made of perforated 
copper. The molasses is tlirown through it and 
comes down between the cylinders, leaving a 
clear w^hite sugar, dry and ready for bagging, 
at the bottom. The operator took a small rub- 
ber tube, and while the cylinder was revolving, 
merely threw a tiny spray of water into it. This 
washed the color off the brown sugar, and I 
reached in and took a handful of clear, white, 
handsome sugar from it. But this they are not 
allowed to export. 

After watching the loading for a time, I 
walked on the lava crags to secure a place where 
they do not fear sharks, and watched the native 
boys riding the surf. Each has a board a little 
wider than an ironing board and about the same 
length. They wade out, going through the 
rollers until they see a big one coming in, and 
catch it, jumping on their boards as a boy jumps 
on his sled and they ride on the top of the wave. 
The feet of the natives seem to be tough, and 
women and boys wear no shoes and walk on the 
stony, sharp rocks without any apparent fear of 
stone bruises. A group of natives stood in a 
circle on the shore and watched the sport. 

I saw one right pretty native woman, dressed 



82 Sounds From Home and 

in a red *• holoku " and the usual flat-brimmed 
straw hat, trimmed with red garlands, start for 
the shore. She was very much dressed up, 
having shoes and stockings on. As she could 
not afford to risk the shoes and stockings, she 
deliberately sat down, proceeded to divest her- 
self of her cherished pedal covering, and then ' ! 
walked in on the crags, carefully carrying the ,^ \ 
same in her hands, preparatory to her swim in J I 
the surf. Supper at the Chinaman's. \ \ 
In the morning Dr. A. found a man with a ^ | 
good horse which he would sell for $65, and as • i 
v/e had to provide ourselves with them at Hilo 
for the volcano trip, could either rent the animal 
and send him back again, or buy him and sell 
him again. He concluded to take the horse 
and ride on to Hilo along the coast while I would 
wait and take the ''Kinau" the next day. So 
we started v/ith our bundles for our lodgings. 
You can imagine a woodshed boarded up on the 
open side, whitewashed inside, two beds about 
three feet apart ; neat bedclothes, lace of some 
kind on the pillow (a decoration never omitted 
no matter what kind the bed, ) and the bed it- 
self — its hardness I cannot describe. A piece 
of matting laid on the floor would have been a 




O 

Si 
pi 

C' 



o 
K 
i 

I— ( 
H: 
-^ 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 83 

downy couch in comparison. This gorgeous 
apartment was reached by walking through a 
narrow hall betvv^een two Chinese houses and 
then along a board platform. ¥/e retired to our 
beds and for two hours wrestled with our bones. 
The bed was so hard and generally insufferable, 
words are inadequate to express it ; so neither 
said a word. Could not sleep of course and 
found myself laughing and shaking to hear my 
companion toss and mutter. 

Finally I ventured the remark that we were 
simply a couple of quiet American travelers 
abroad for pleasure and the benefit of our health. 
*'How are you getting along? " 
The reply was, ^'This is awful ! " 
We sat up and found that by folding up the 
gorgeous red and white cover matters might be 
improved, then proceeded to find out ^' where 
that draught came from," and found that the 
roof was open about four feet above the wall, 
therefore into this opening we stuffed our rubber 
coats and leggings, and finally our tired bones 
could stand it no longer and we slept. Had 
breakfast at the Chinaman's. Doctor started 
for Hilo on horseback and I settled down to 
spend the day. Passed a pleasant hour with the 



84 Sounds From Home and 

postmaster, and from his wife procured an easy 
chair when I wished to sit on the steps and 
smoke. The great lava crags, dashed by the 
surf, stretched out far into the sea about twenty- 
five or thirty feet. Across the street was a 
spring, and here all the morning, Portuguese 
w^omen were going to and fro, as this seemed to 
be their wash-day; setting the baby (if they 
had one) up against a rock, and placing the 
bottle of milk with tube in proper shape for its 
sustenance, proceeded to rub the clothes on the 
stones which answered for wash tubs. Portu- 
guese women carry all loads on their heads. Are 
erect and have fine figures. 

I climbed a road up a cliff about six hundred 
feet and was rewarded with a fine view from this 
elevation. Then came down and amused my- 
self looking at the assistant postmaster try to 
shoot a rooster which was to serve for his dinner. 
He chased it all over the place with his gun. 
Finally, with the help of his wife, chased it into 
a corner and finished him. He was very proud of 
his success and boasted to me that he hit him 
four times, and spoke farther of his game. I 
remarked that their way was different from 
ours. Yie generally caught the chicken out in 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 85 

the yard and wrung its neck, a much more sim- 
ple way, but one very much less exciting. He had 
been two hours at it and said he was pretty tired 
and thought he would take a bath. So he mean- 
dered out to a cavity of rock fifteen feet square 
and five deep, safe from sharks. I could have 
gone also, but remembering that my feet were not 
tough enough to stand lava rocks, I refrained. 
He did not ask me to dinner, so I called on my 
friend John and dined on the same viands as 
before. This menu seems to be the only one 
Johnnie has. After dinner as I had about ex- 
hausted the frivolities of the place, I secured a 
nice piece of wood and sat down on the steps to 
whittle and the postmaster sat down beside me, 
and I answered all his questions about the 
United States. Gradually the stick I was 
whittling assumed the shape of a boat and I 
became interested. I noticed I was the centre 
of absorbing interest of about a dozen Kanaka 
boys, whose greedy eyes were fixed on the boat 
and '* hope springing eternal in their breasts^' 
that I would name the happy possessor. To 
increase the interest I walked off toward the 
mill, the boys followed, running, quarreling 
and generally indicating that they were with 



86 Sounds From Home and 

me to stay until the fate of that boat was 
decided. To quell the excitement, I put the 
boat in my pocket and the crowd gradually 
thinned out, leaving one urchin glaring at me 
from the top of a candle box in the grocery 
store. I kept the boat as a memento. If it 
stays with me until I reach home S. B. shall 
have it. 

The longest day has an end and about eight 
in the evening the ''Kinau " came in. I bade 
Laupahoehoe a fond farewell, tumbled into a 
boat and went on board the steamer. The 
purser kindly gave me a good room on the upper 
deck, and after getting my traps aboard and 
putting my letters into the bag for Honolulu to 
go by the next mail, I turned in for a good 
night's rest. We reached Hilo about eleven 
o'clock that night. As the steamer did not 
leave until ten the next morning I spent the 
night there, and rising at six the next morning 
found myself looking out on the beautiful bay 
of Hilo, a semicircle of beach fringed with 
cocoanut trees and the pretty little town on 
'^ that emerald isle, with its city at rest by the 
sea," and the two giants, Mauna-kea and 
Mauna-loa looming up in the clouds in the dis- 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 87 

tance, their snow-covered peaks against the 
blue background of sky, and the whole envel- 
oped in the soft, warm velvet atmosphere, truly 
a sight for the immortals. To breathe this air 
was simply an elixir. Making ii\j toilet very 
deliberaiely, my stateroom door wide open, I 
could see the excursionists going ashore in the 
early boats; but I have learned something of 
travel and w^aited for a good breakfast and a 
chat vdth the captain, taking it leisurely, and 
finally bundled mj^self and traps into the last 
boat. I was pulled up on deck hj some Kana- 
kas, and was accosted hj a pleasant gentleman 
who informed me that Dr. Andrews had arrived 
the evening before, and w^as looking for me, and 
that we were expected to visit Judge Austin, 
and his carriage was waiting to take me up, and 
so I was driven to the house. 

I gave Dr. A. his letters and returned to the 
post-oiiice for mine. A conversation with the 
postmaster developed the fact that my mail had 
been delivered to a very prominent resident of 
Hilo, bearing my name in full, minus the M. D. 
He is one of the old residents here. I found 
my way to his office, a frame house near the 
bay, and it was closed. The Portuguese barber 



88 Sounds From Home and 

across the way told me that the doctor had not 
been down that morning, so I sat down on a box 
across the narrow street and gazed curiously at 
my name on the weather beaten sign over the 
way. Of course I was impatient, and fifteen 
minutes more found me climbing the hill to his 
house, a pretty cottage in real Hawaiian style, 
with open windows giving glimpses of artistic 
interior. The Doctor was out and a lady vol- 
unteered to find him. Shortly afterward he 
emerged from one of the little cottages in the 
vicinity. We gazed at each other rather curi- 
ously, he giving his name, and I introducing 
myself as bearing his name from a far off land. 
There were numerous explanations, etc., with his 
hearty '*! am glad to see you, sir; I have seven 
letters and some papers for you. " Continuing, 
he said that he had opened one and found it began 
^'Dear Papa," and as he was not aware of any 
children in the States, was about to take the 
letters back to the office. He is a handsome, 
intelligent elderly gentleman, with gray hair 
and polished manners and very cordial ways. 
He said he was about taking his bath and I 
could read my letters and we would walk down 
the street together. 



JEchoes of a Kingdom, 89 

When I had finished reading home letters I 
felt ten years younger, and went ont into the 
open air like a refreshed giant. 

Yesterday I drifted about the place; Judge 
Austin walked wath me and introduced me to 
nearly all the prominent men there — lawyers, 
judges, etc. Today is Sunday. Went to church, 
a pretty little structure partly filled with whites 
and natives. The choir sang Faure's ^'Palm 
Trees," as it was Palm Sunday; the choir 
intoned the Lord's Prayer. The church w^as 
beautifully trimmed w4th palms of many kinds. 
A good sermon by the pastor on that day. 
Quite a number of English people are stopping 
at Judge Austin's. There was quite a jolly 
gathering at dinner. 

Was w^aited on by a committee yesterday and 
asked to make an address at a temperance 
meeting; declined with thanks, telling them 
that the Doctor had promised to do all the pub- 
lic speaking, while I attended to the necessary 
writing. We attended the native church ser- 
vice tonight, where was a very interesting 
gathering of Sunday School children, who sang 
in a way that would put to shame any attempts 
of the kind in our ow^n goodly city. The boys 



90 Sounds From Home and 

sang alone two pieces, one of them the '' Holy, 
Holy, Lord God Almighty." There were about 
fifty boys in the chorus, who with their melod- 
ious voices made music well worth listening to. 
Have been well trained and I am told can sing 
the Halleluiah chorus very well. I am going 
to hear it tomorrov^^ Monday morning about 
nine o'clock I v/ent to the native school to 
attend the opening exercises. About forty 
boys, in age from nine to twenty years, are in 
school. First was a selection played by the 
brass band under the trees, consisting of about 
a dozen boys old and young, and they played 
well. Then back into the house where the boys 
sang "Holy, holy,'' and read the Bible, etc. Mr. 
Burt led the meeting. What do you suppose? 
Why, the Hallelujah Chorus from the Messiah 
was sung, and I never heard it sung better. 
Fancy a lot of natives and half castes singing 
this without words or music before them and 
without a break or error. I was astonished. 
Dr. A. and Dr. Wetmore came up with the 
horses and we started for a visit up the ravine 
on horseback, taking in Rainbow Falls and the 
other sights. I cannot describe this ride in 
detail, but I never expect to take such another 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 91 

rough ride again. The rugged slopes and gulches, 
the steep sides covered thick with underbrush, 
long grass; jumping over fallen trees; fairly 
sliding down steep, muddy streams not over a 
foot wide; overhanging trees knocking our 
hats off and projecting limbs trying to break 
our legs. All this at an angle of forty-five 
degrees, and coming to a perpendicular wall 
four feet high, the horses standing straight up and 
jumping so that all you can do is to cling to the 
the saddle and try not to fall off backwards. 
Crossing from boulder to boulder, and then hav- 
ing to come back through it all in a drizzling 
rain. 

I have been told since by old travelers here 
that they seldom try to ride it, but leave the 
animals at the worst places and walk. I think 
it must have been arranged especially for us 
*'haoulis," but we accepted the situation and 
never flinched. 

Eeached home about six o'clock, and in the 
evening went to the meeting of the Scientific 
Club. The next evening accepted an invitation 
to Judge Lyman's for dinner, and met the most 
influential element here. Yesterday, at Mrs. 
Lyman's suggestion, both her family and Judge 



92 Sounds From Home and 

Austin's went over to Cocoanut Island, a most 
lovely place, reached partly by boat and partly 
by horse. We dismounted, rowing through the 
surf and then bestriding horses, riding around 
the bay where w^e w^ere taken across in a boat 
to the island, an ideal one for a picnic, covered 
w^ith tall cocoanut trees, the lava crags stretch- 
ing out in broken patches toward the Sf a be- 
tween beautiful ponds of water and white sandy 
beach, fine for bathing. A comfortable house 
used for camping purposes on the island. After 
a plunge in the surf, the Kanaka boy built a 
fire of dried banana and cocoanut leaves and 
boiled the coffee, and with fine appetites we 
managed to dispose of a most excellent repast. 
Took some photos and reached town again about 
six o'clock. 

We planned our ride to the volcano, and Dr. 
Wetmore intended to go with us, but may not 
be able to on account of the illness of his grand- 
child. Am sorry, as I suppose there is no one 
better posted than he. From the crater we take 
a different route to Punaluu, where w^e expect to 
take the boat and go to the Island of Maui to 
visit Mr. Walbridge at the Wailuku plantation, 
and then Dr. Andrews will keep on with his 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 93 \ 

horse to his home at Kailua for a visit of a week \ 

or so. ' 

Next Sunday will be Easter Sunday, and I ■ 

will probably be at the volcano, in the midst of ' 

its marvels. With the ^ ^ blue ethereal " above ; 
me and the fiery gulf below, and the walk in 

the valley among the crags of black lava that ] 

they tell of, I shall imagine myself as standing ■ 
betwixt Heaven and the Valley of the Inferno. 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM. 



EXTRACT FROM HISTORY OF KAAHUMANU, FAVORITE 
WIFE OF KAMEHAMEHA. 

**She was born about the year 1773 at the foot 
of the hill Kauiki, on the Eastern shore of Maui. 
Her father was Keeaumaku, a distinguished 
warrior. Her mother was Namahaua, the 
daughter of King Kekaulike and had been Queen 
of Maui. Soon after -her birth her parents re- 
moved to Hawaii, where she narrowly escaped 
drowning in infancy. She was riding with her 
parents on the pola, or top of a double canoe, 
wrapped in a roll of white copper, or cloth, as 
they were sailing along the coast. From the 
tossing of the canoe she fell off into the sea fast 
asleep. The white copper floating on the waves 
attracted the attention of her parents. They 
paddled quickly back' and drew her out of the 
water. 

''Once when following her mother around the 
end of a canoe on the seashore a huge wave 

94 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 



95 



carried her out. A cousin sprang in and 
rescued her. The years of her infancy were 
years of wars and bloodshed between the kings 
of the different islands. Trained in heathenism 
and on the battlefield, Kaahumanu at the age of 
thirteen was taken among the wives of Kame- 
hameha I, and being of high birth, was held in 
great esteem in the eyes of the nation and her 
husband. She became the favorite of the con- 
queror, although he had twenty other wives. 
Though the favorite, she had often to endure 
his anger and experienced insults at his iron 
hand. They were reconciled at the solicitation 
of Vancouver. During one difficulty she deter- 
mined to leave him and embarked alone in a 
beautiful canoe for Kauai. She was pursued 
and brought back. Kamehameha was a man of 
violence. Nothing would appease his wrath 
and he once beat Kaakumanu with an iron 
anvil for speaking of a young man as ' hand- 
some.' He v/as jealous and fond of her, and 
once put forth an edict that if any one should 
insult her, he should be put to death. 

^'At Kamehameha' s death she was made a Pre- 
mier and virtually ruled the kingdom. She 
became a Christian in 1824, was married to the 



96 8ou7ids From Home. 

King of Hawaii, and died in June, 1882, a devout 
Christian, repeating these lines of a native 
hymn: 

^' ^Lo, here am I, O Jesus, grant me thy gra- 
cious smile.' " 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM. 

Volcano House, Hawaii, Apr. 6, '88. 

We left Hilo Sunday morning on horseback, 
Dr. Chas. H. Wetmore with us, and started for 
an up-hill rocky ride of thirty miles. It had 
been raining and bad weather for some days, 
but the start of our ride was propitious, and for 
the first ten miles the weather and the sky were 
all that could be desired, and the two doctors 
gathered flowers and ferns to their hearts' con- 
tent; they being very well versed in botany, 
were of course delighted with every new speci- 
men of fern or flower along the route. But rain 
came, and for the rest of the day we soaked and 
sweltered in our rubber coats and leggings, and 
such a ride and such a road ! If such a thing 
were possible, this road was rougher than any- 
thing we had yet experienced. We could not 
stop for lunch as there was no place to do so, 
and we munched our hard tack and boiled eggs 
as we rode in the driving mist, 

97 



98 Sounds From Home and 

We reached the Volcano House at 5:30, hav- 
ing made a straight ride of thirty miles, except 
to pick some kukua nuts or some new find among 
the shrubs, etc. Our horses would take a bit of 
grass once in a while and eat as they went, and 
so 'we made it, and as there was a stretch of 
good road and level for a mile near the house, 
we came up to the hotel on a gallop and in good 
shape, but oh, how stiff we were! nine and one- 
half hours in the saddle. My clothes were 
stripped off and put in the drying room. Thanks 
to our oilcloth, our underwear was compara- 
tively dry. 

After a hearty supper, and a good smoke be- 
fore the large brick fire-place, wound up the 
day by retiring for the night in a front room 
with windows looking out on the great crater of 
Kilauea, too tired with the trip to realize our 
wonderful surroundings. The next day was 
still foggy and rainy, but v/e visited the sul- 
phur bank and took a sulphur steam bath in 
natural steam coming up from a crack in the 
rock. The next day (yesterday) looked dubi- 
ous until about noon, when the weather ap- 
peared more favorable, and after dinner we 
started for the crater with guide, lanterns. 



Echoes of a Kingdom. 99 

walking sticks, canteens of water, etc. The 
road leads down the cliff in front of the house, 
260 feet high, where we reached the floor of the 
crater, and then began a two-mile tramp across 
the bed of lava to the active crater. I cannot 
give you any idea of this curious and great field 
of old lava, but you can imagine an ocean with 
a good sized storm on, and all the waves a con- 
gealed and hardened mass of great black hills 
and valleys, seamed with great cracks and slabs 
of the black rock appearing in all directions. 
This is surrounded by high cliffs from 450 to 
1,000 feet high, like an amphitheater. On one 
side of it is the active part of the crater, and 
one must see it all, as words fail to describe the 
scene. The centre of all is the cone of the Hal- 
emaumau where fires are burning, and around 
this great crater cone smaller ones are burning. 
Some have filled up with lava thrown out and 
fallen in, shovfing great caverns fifty or sixty 
feet deep. Took photos in two or three places, 
then skirted around the lava to the burning 
lake. We found a point on the edge of the cliff 
about 3,000 feet from the lake and about fifty 
feet above it, and the sight cannot easily be for- 
gotten. 



100 Sounds From Home and 

The lake is j^et active and a good deal of it 
has fallen in and sunk and the surface cannot 
be traversed. This one as we sav/ it was nearly 
semi-circular, 350 feet in diameter and filled 
nearly to the brim Mviih lava'. It was playing 
like a fountain at different points. The surface 
of dark purple lava was thrown thirty feet in 
the air and fountains of the red hot lava played 
for a few moments, subsided, then gathered 
strength and again boiled and threw off this 
magnificent fountain. This was going on at 
five different places at once. Then a circle of 
red could be seen around the edge, gradually 
creeping across the lake, soon to burst up in 
red spra}^ high in the air. It w^as not crimson 
or scarlet, nor like the red light of a blast fur- 
nace, but a fiery intense red. 

We sheltered ourselves behind some upturned 
lava slabs over a steam hole where we could 
keep warm, and here we stayed and watched 
the gorgeous coloring of purple and red in the 
hissing billows of hot lava dashing against the 
dark cliffs or rocks of lava ; here and there a 
yellow whirlpool or a golden colored river would 
steal over the surface of the lake. 

From where we rested, once a boiling caul- 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 101 

dron of molten lava, the magnificence of the 
sight cannot be depicted on canvas, nor can 
the half be told. The red light tinted the vast 
clouds of escaping smoke and steam that were 
constantly issuing from the cones or fissures 
about ; night was drawing near and darkness 
settled down on the great dark plain. 

The hotel was two miles away, and then our 
guide became of great importance to us, as we 
had not the slightest idea of the trail in this 
dark place. Lanterns were lighted, staffs taken 
up, overcoats buttoned up, and we turned our 
backs on the glorious sight. Our guide kept 
his path unerringly across the black plain. 
Great care must be taken not to catch one's foot 
in a crack, as the lava is sharp and glassy and 
every step must be watched. We were an hour 
and a half reaching the foot of the cliff. Only 
one accident, one of our party stepped into a 
crack and cut his foot on the sharp edge of the 
lava rock. At the foot of the cliff we found 
our horses, which we had sent down, as the 
climb up the 500 feet after the hard tramp 
to the crater must have been very hard for them. 
I mounted and with my lantern started on ahead. 
My horse was a little dazed and restive at the 



102 Sounds From Home and 

unusual situation, and I found that I was not 
familiar with the turns in the narrow and zig- 
^^ggj road, so I was a little sorry I did not 
wait. When about a third way up Dr. Wet- 
more, who was riding a little behind me, called 
out that Dr. Andrews should have a lantern, 
and a moment after there seemed to be some 
trouble back of us. The guide and the Portu- 
guese were both back there, and as I stopped 
and looked, I could see the form of a white 
horse with no saddle on, and presently the horse 
came tearing up to where I was. Mr. Maby, 
who was back of me, caught him or he might 
have pushed my horse over the verge. However, 
no harm proved to have been done. The girth 
of his saddle broke and the rider rolled off his 
horse, fortunately on the inside, and the horse, 
tripped by the saddle, fell and then started up 
the road. The rider was not injured, and after 
repairing the damage, we continued on our way. 
Out of the darkness, the sight indelibly im- 
printed on our vision, we emerged to welcome 
the cheery light and warmth of the hotel, reach- 
ing there about nine P. M.; we wrote our names 
in the big book, wherein poets and travelers, 
nobility and every day people like ourselves 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 103 

had written their names in turn, many having 
jotted impressions of the g^reat Kilauea. Fare- 
well mighty Kilauea, with your molten sea and 
your picture rocks; would that I might again view 
thy wonders. This will never be my lot, how- 
ever, so it is farewell to Kilauea forever. Per- 
haps you have forgotten the dimensions of this 
crater ; it is oval in shape, nine miles in circum- 
ference and six thousand feet above sea level. 
Tomorrow v/e shall ride in another direction 
to the ocean and Punaluu. We will dismiss our 
horses and take boat for Maaleia Bay and go 
to Wailuku, where I shall visit S'Ir. Walbridge. 
Dr. Andrews goes to Kailua. A very pleasant 
visit at Hilo; it is a charming city, and was 
delightfully entertained at Judge Austin's. 
While there received a note from the clergyman, 
asking me to sing at the Union meeting Sunday 
evening. I inspected the stock of music in use 
there, which was very limited. I found '^Gems 
of Songs" and arranged the words of '^ Jesus 
Lover of my Soul" to the air of *'When the 
Swallows Homevv^ard Fly," and sang it to the 
accompaniment of a poula organ. By the way, 
I heard at a blue ribbon meeting, while at Hilo, 
a half-white girl play the zither very well. I 



104 Sounds From Home, 

must close as it is growing dark. The wife of 
the manager of this house is a half white and 
the children varied in complexion. I enclose 
a fern found on the cliff. Look at it through 
the magnifying glass. 

The great god, Maui, laid there his nets and 
snared the sun, as he rose, only releasing him 
upon his promise to always bestow light and 
warmth upon the Islands. 




KING KALAKALA 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM, 



Wailuku, Maui, April 13th, 1888. 

Still on the Islands, but headed homeward, 
however. That is, we are going, next week, to 
Honolulu, sailing some time during May, on 
Steamer ^ ^Australia." I eannot give you a 
detailed account of all I have seen, but the 
three islands of Oahu, Maui and Hawaii we 
have made quite thoroughly on horseback. I 
am spending a few days with Mr. Walbridge, 
manager of this plantation, he has about one 
thousand acres under his care, is on horseback 
at five o'clock in the morning, overseeing. 

On one of these early morning rides I noticed 
a native dragging himself wearily along and my 
companion informed me that he was a victim 
of the ^^Hoodoo," that nothing could rouse 
him from his apathy. His enemy had willed 
him to die, and die he must. 

The mountain containing the extinct crater 
of Hale-a-ka-la ''House of the Sun" forms East 

105 



106 Sounds From Home and 

Maui, the largest extinct volcano of the world. 
Maui is also noted as containing extensive sugar 
plantations, the famous Spreckles owns an 
extensive one here. The view from the highest 
point of Maui is very fine, Oahu in the dim dis- 
tance, Molokai across the water and the extinct 
crater that I mentioned is twenty-five or thirty 
miles in circumference, and two to three thous- 
and feet deep and ten thousand feet above the 
sea level, and contains within this circumference 
about sixteen basins of old volcanoes. Kaui is 
named the Garden of the Islands, but as we are 
limited in time, cannot make this trip. "We are 
due at home in the States before June. 

I came by steamer from a place called Punaluu, 
and on the way His Majesty King Kalakaua, 
with his retinue from his resort at Kailua came 
on board, with six or eight servants. He was 
conveyed to steamer by his boat crew, in six- 
oared barge. The crew, dressed in white and 
blue uniform, came aboard, bade him adieu, 
knelt and kissed his hand. The king had two 
women attendants near him. One squatted 
down near him and lighted his cigarette for him. 
The other, I was told, was his body servant, and 
attended to his going to bed and getting up. 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 107 

He had his singers and taropabeli fiddle and 
they tuned their instruments and sang songs the 
entire evening. I was much interested and took 
it all in. 

The king sat in an arm chair and when any 
of the natives or servants went near him, to 
speak to him, they squatted down so as not to 
stand higher than he. In passing they would 
doff hats and sidle by. 

At Kawaihae, where he stopped, the head 
man came for him in a large boat, with torches 
flaring, and took the party ashore. Being a 
free-born American citizen, and thinking the 
king might be glad to become acquainted with 
me, and also fearing that I might never again 
have such a chance, I took the bull by the horns, 
so to speak, and stepped up by the side of his 
chair ; lifting my hat, I remarked ; 

^*I wish to thank your Majesty for the very 
pleasant evening I have spent listening to the 
excellent singing of your band." He was very 
agreeable, and we had a chat about music, row- 
ing, electric lights, cable, etc. On going ashore 
he shook hands very cordially, bade me good-bye, 
said he hoped to be back in Honolulu before I 
sailed, and invited me to come and see him. 



108 Sounds From Home and 

Having always found it well to be friendly with 
kings, therefore, I shall accept his invitation. 

Mr. Walbridge has put a fine horse at my 
disposal and I can take an airing at any time. 
Will write once or twice more before I start 
home. Aloha, 

* Ht % % % 

In addition to letters, I find various memor- 
anda of the king's hospitality. His hospitality 
to the base-ball players is spoken of particular- 
ly, they being invited to a luau^ or native feast, 
given in a tent one hundred feet long, fifty feet 
wide, the floor covered with rushes ; the king 
and his guests seated on strips of matting on 
each side of the table, which consisted of a 
board a few inches from the floor. Kanaka girls 
were stationed about ten feet apart, dressed in 
white Mother Hubbards or kolokus. "These dusky 
symphonies in white waved lazily long-handled, 
gayly-colored fans over the table." Calabashes 
filled with native food were before each plate. 
On platters were baked beef, baked pork, baked 
chicken, baked veal, each being wrapped in the 
leaves in which they had been baked on stones 
in the earth. 

To transfer the poi from the calabash to the 



Echoes of a Kingdom. 109 

plate seemed the easier way toward final dis- 
posal. A pretty girl, however, laughing at the 
novices, dipped her pretty fingers into the pink 
mush and skilfully conveyed sundry twists of poi 
from the calabash to her mouth. Recovering from 
our astonishment and realizing that this was 
real native style and not a breach of etiquette, 
we followed suit and ate poi with our fingers. 
With music, laughter and song as accompani- 
ments, the American base-ball team had partaken 
of the native Hawaiian feast and felt themselves 
most highly honored. 

Another time we find the hospitable Kalakaua 
giving a dinner for the officers of the vessels in 
port. One was given in honor of the gallant 
Captain Schoonmaker, of the U. S. flag ship 
'^Vandalia," who gave up his life in that 
tragedy of the Samoan sea. 

In addition to these letters, I write down bits 
of information that have come to me, perhaps 
have been told many times before by others, but 
the subject is, however, wonderfully interesting, 
namely, the * ^Lepers of Molokai." Nature's 
walls hem them in on this sea-girt island ; nat- 
ural formations of rock make a "• city's walls," 
and of the original chiefs who dwelt here there 



110 Sounds From Home and 

are only about forty descendants left to dispute 
with the leper community the question of * *Thus 
far shalt thou go," etc. A few wind-breaks or 
stone piles are all there is left to show former 
ownership. The most noble work of the Hawa- 
iian government is in its faithful care of its 
wards, the stricken lepers of the Islands. 

Our correspondent, in his journeying over the 
three islands named Oahu, Maui and Hawaii, 
mentions seeing a group of five or six on their 
way to the home of the ^* living dead." Thus 
says the Hawaiian Government, *^I must be 
cruel to be kind." The visiting board started 
on its customary tour of investigation at one 
time, in Molokai. Taking the steamer, they 
landed at the leper settlement, Kalapapa. The 
spokesman of the settlement presented their 
grievances, relating mostly to change of food, 
etc. He spoke of kind treatment, and in ans- 
wer the speaker of the visiting committee assured 
him that these matters would be satisfactorily 
arranged for them. They received quite an 
ovation, the leper brass band of twelve pieces 
played for them, and their responsive * ^alohas" 
were very touching as greetings and farewells. 

The committee paid a visit to the Bishop 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 111 

home for girls, in cliarge of Sister Marianne and 
assistants. Tiieir heroism was deeply appreci- 
ated and a source of wonder, as among the 
sterner sex of which the visiting party was com- 
posed, the desire to not linger longer than was 
necessary was discernible, for the sight was 
indeed grievous and pitiful. 

At Kalawao, Fathers Conrady and Wendolin 
were met, they being in charge of the boy's 
school. The party visited the new church on 
the site of Father Damien's old one, also the 
tomb of the apostle of Molokai. 

The traveler, in some one of his early letters, 
speaks of not caring to accept the hospitalities 
unadvised of a real native hut on the horse- 
back journey through the islands mentioned, 
fearing very likely the possible proximity, in so 
doing, of some unfortunate member of a native 
family, stricken perhaps with the first symptom 
of the dread disease, whom love and protection 
would conceal from the authorities, hoping to 
gain a few days, or months' reprieve from the 
dreadful verdict, the necessary *' edict of a 
kingdom." 

On Father Damien's monument, presented by 
the National Leprosy Fund Association of Eng- 



112 Sounds From Home and 

land, Prince of Wales, President, are inscribed 
the following lines : ' ^ Greater love hath no man 
than this, that a man lay down his life for his 
friend : " 

Among the interesting memoranda connected 
with the Hawaiian trip, the writer finds the 
following invitation to lolani Palace, addressed 
to the traveler. 



THE CHAMBERLAIN OF THE HOUSEHOLD 

IS COMMANDED BY 

HIS MAJESTY 

TO INVITE YOU TO A 

DANCE AT lOLANI PALACE 

THE 2nd INST,, AT 9 O'CLOCK P. M. 

The reception and ball at the palace, given in 
honor of Sir William Wiseman, of H. R. M. S. 
** Caroline," was a brilliant affair. Gay uni- 
forms of different nations, worn by brave men, 
also beautiful gowns worn by fair ladies, society 
leaders of Honolulu, the Paris of the Islands, 
the music of the Hawaiian band, electric lights, 
palms, ferns, and gorgeous flowers, formed a 




PRINCE.-S LILIOUKAI.ANI 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 113 

bewildering combination, a wonderful panorama 
to the onlooker. The gayly decked forms whirled 
in the mazy dance or gathered in groups. The 
queen wore, on this occasion, a magnificent 
gown of black velvet trimmed with mamo leis. 
This costume was worn by Her Majesty on the 
occasion of Queen Victoria's Jubilee celebration. 

When I dwell upon this wonderful kaleido- 
scope, as it was told to me, I seem to see a pro- 
cession, an apotheosis of heroes, prior to that 
cruel sacrifice in the waters of the relentless 
Samoan Sea, where noble ships and gallant men 
were tossed about, mere playthings of the sav- 
age winds and waves: brave sailor laddies dying 
like heroes, a veritable tragedy of the sea. 

What a change has come over the spirit of 
our dream! King Kalakaua has followed his 
warrior ancestors to their long home, ^nd 
the easy, not '^ uneasy" head that wore a 
crown, the hospitable, pleasure-loving king, 
rests from his earthly pleasures and perhaps the 
occasional frown caused by some petty revolu- 
tion of short duration. Queen Kapiolani lives 
quietly at her home in Waikiki, a few miles 
from Honolulu. 

Princess Kaiulani, having finished her educa- 



114 



Sounds From Home and 



tion this year in England, has returned to Hon- 
olulu. Thus far she has escaped the trouble 
and care involved in the wearing of a '* golden 
sorrow"; rumor says she may soon wed the 
man of her choice. If not Queen of the Isles, 
she will be Queen of Hearts ; this little maiden 
of ^^ high degree " of the year 1888. Therefore, 
in that picture and festive scene at lolani palace, 
with its beautiful coloring, was the Sun of Roy- 
alty already drawing near the horizon, ere long 
to vanish from sight. 




The postman's ring or knock at one's door is 
a *^ home sound " most welcome, especially when 
it tells of a home coming; little children's faces 
brighten, the steps of their elders quicken and 
it is then perhaps we dispense with those path- 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 115 

etic strains of Gungle's *• Sounds from Home," 
and let the ''Fiddle" have its swing. 

It is a home coming, not a parting. 

We hear the Hawaiian band for the last time 
as it plays the stirring ''Hawaii Ponoi," or 
perhaps the strains of some Aloha song reach 
us from the .Kanaka chorus; lets (lays) of 
flowers and sweet scented maile speed the part- 
ing guest ; we are homew^ard bound. 

Thus the traveler reached his native shore, 
laden with beautiful memories of a sunny land 
and cherished memories of newly made friends, 
and from Aloha Land came gifts to the " stay- 
at-homes. " Curious shells and bits of coral, 
kukui jewelry, braided fans, bearing the inter- 
woven greeting from across the Sea of "Aloha 
oe nui;" there were flower lets sent as fare- 
wells to the parting guest, shell and feather 
bands; old Kilauea furnished samples of lava, 
and with the ferns and fragrant leaves came 
that breath of salt air and tint of summer sky 
that might well tempt the invalid, or otherwise, 
to cross the Peaceful Sea, really a well-deserved 
name notwithstanding that little ebullition of 
temper encountered by the traveler, caused by 
"kona " we are assured. 



116 Sounds From Home and 

In an earlier letter, the poet tells us most 
poetically that Madame Pacific dislikes outside 
interference. Now that she has settled the 
Kona for a few years, we may presume that she 
has resumed her wonted ways and wears the 
calm of a queen on her majestic face. Apropos 
of the Pacific in the present tense, what do they 
say of Hawaii as to tense and mood? Hawaii 
of late seems to be taking rapid strides toward 
freeing herself from even an echo of a kingdom. 
In the words of the old song ''We may be happy 
yet, " we dwellers of two countries, as sisters 
and brethren, under one flag, the glorious 
''Stars and Stripes. " 

Whatever way it may be decided, may " peace 
and happiness," "truth and justice," spread 
their wings over your beautiful Islands, ye 
kindly, hospitable dwellers of Hawaii. It 
would be indeed a new era in our history could 
we be permitted to celebrate a Fourth of July, 
or February twenty-second, among your tropi- 
cal groves, and address you as "fellow citizens 
and countrymen." A person of the feminine 
persuasion naturally feels a little tendency 
towards a fit of ague, a little chattering of the 
teeth, in taking a mental survey of those ships 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 117 

of every nation standing about the Islands, 
waiting apparently for a slice. 

With the ^'Passing of a Kingdom" goes 
much of the romance and legendary atmosphere 
and traditional customs surrounding the throne 
of these dusky kings and queens. The Passing 
of a Kingdom, however, cannot chill that balmy 
air, or stiffen those waving palms, nor yet dim 
that glorious sunshine. When the edicts of a 
kingdom cease to exist, the ^'Echoes of a 
Kingdom ' ' come fainter and more faint on the 
listening ear, until only a memory remains. 

Little Kingdom of the Sea, farewell. 



ECHOES OF A KINGDOM. 

A GREETING TO THE PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT. 

The writer of the little bundle of letters 
wherein the ink was fading, has passed on to 
that '^other country" from whence there comes 
no answering '^ Aloha oe, aloha nui." We have 
said good-night to a Kingdom. In yon same 
fair clime may we send a greeting to the most 
Honorable Provisional Government of Hawaii, 
as you bridge the gulf 'twixt the past and the 
future, with your President, your Ministers, 
and your Legislature convening in yon lolani 
palace. 

Doubtless the rod of justice will rule as well, 
minus the feathery emblem of royalty. Pros- 
perity seems to follow in your wake. Being 
related to Brother Jonathan, we naturally take 
an interest in matters generally. If nutmegs 
will not grind one way, they will another. We 
take an interest in the '' Mills of the Gods " also, 

118 



Echoes of a Kingdom, 119 

hoping they will grind exceeding well. Cer- 
tainly, we must rejoice with those to whom this 
Provisional Government is so welcome ; many 
are descendants of those who toiled in the ser- 
vice of the ^^ Master," living and dying among 
those who today are reaping the benefit of their 
sacrifices. Some day there may come to you, 
Fair Hawaii, a matrimonial proposal from 
Uncle Sam. 

In' considering this alliance, however, our 
much respected, honorable and elderly Uncle 
seems to meet with many obstacles. His 
numerous advisers cast a shadow over his horo- 
scope. They indicate that to '^take you by the 
lily white hand and lead you over the water, " 
means too new and great a responsibility for 
our bachelor Uncle. 

It is not impossible also that after the manner 
and privilege of the fair sex you may change 
your mind, and thus we will have a rejected 
suitor on our hands with an extended experience 
to add to his journal of events. 

Therefore, wedded or single. Kingdom or 
Republic, live forever, Beautiful Hawaii. 



PLANTS AND SHEUBS. 



Plants and Shrubs in the Garden of a Honolulu Resident. 



Royal Palm, 

Areca Palm Cocoanut, 

Mango, 

Papai, 

2 Crinums, 

Colocasia, 

Bermuda Grass, 

2 Sorrels, 

Orange, 

Loquat, 

Ohia, a fruit tree, 

Clitoria, 

2 Parechites, 
Plumieria, 
Cape Jasmine, 

3 Hibiscus, 
Lime, 

2 Marantas, 

Climbing Arum, 

Phylanthus, 

Heliotrope, 

Petunia, 

Bamboo, 

Algaroba, 

Lantana, 

Gaillardia, 

Marigold, 

Carnation, 

Rondeletia, 

2 Begonias, 

Cryptameria, 

2 Peperomias, 

Ilangilang, 

pandering Jew, 

2 Colored 



Fan Palm, 
Screw Pine, 
Tamarind, 
2 Thunbergias, 
2 Amaryllis, 
2 Dracoenas, 
Hilo Grass, 
2 Bananas, 

Fig, 

Alligator Pear, 
Sunflower, 
C. Clerodendron, 
Agave, 

Crape Jasmine, 
Climbing Jasmine, 
Pomegranate, 
20 kinds of ferns. 
Vanilla, 
Stephanotis, 
Nasturtium, 
Verbena, Vorne 
Periwinkle, 
6 Varieties Croton, 
Indigo, 
Capsicum, 
Calliopsis, 
8 Caladiums, 
A yellow flowered tree, 
Sellaginella, 
Saxifrage, 

2 Ornamental Grasses, 
Rose Apple, 
Atamasco Lily, 
Euclaris, 
foliage shrubs. 



120 



FRUITS. 

Fruits and Their Seasons in the Hawaiian Islands. 

Avocado, or Alligator Pears June-August. 

Bananas All the year round. 

Cherimoyas November-December. 

China Oranges All the year round. 

Cocoa Nuts All the year round. 

Custard Apples September-October. 

Dates June-October. 

Eugenie June- August. 

Figs , Nearly all the year. 

Garcinia May -July, 

Grapes June-October. 

Guavas (native) Nearly all the year. 

Guavas (strawberry) January-December. 

Java Plums July-November. 

Limes All the year round. 

Litchie July-September. 

Loquats July- January. 

Mamme Apple July -November. 

Mangoes June-September. 

Mulberries July-October. 

Muskmelons June-November. 

Ohias June-November. 

Oranges All the year round. 

Papaias All the year round. 

Peaches June- September. 

Pine Apples June- August. 

Pomegranates June-October. 

Rose Apples June-October. 

Sapota Pear June-October. 

Sour Sop Nearly all the year. 

Spanish Cherries May -September. 

Strawberries February-September. 

Tamarinds Nearly all the year. 

Vis June-November. 

Water Lemons July-October, 

Water Melons May-October. 

Whampee July-September. 

121 



COFFEE. 

Coffee the New Industry. 

The sugar mills and process of producing the article in differ- 
ent degrees of color for exportation, are described in the "Echoes 
OF A Kingdom;" the machinery required for this purpose is very 
expensive. Only large investors seem to make fortunes in the 
sugar market. Coffee is the new industry and product, being ex- 
tensively cultivated, and bids fair to bring a large revenue to the 
islands. The coffee planting is mostly in the forest lands, cleared 
by specified contract labor of Chinese and Japanese. Three years 
are required before first crop is matured. These same coffee lands 
are favorable for other plantings and vegetation, and energetic 
investors can find other sources of income. The islands are especi- 
ally valuable for coffee plantations at Hawaii, Maui and Molokai. 
Elevation of land for this purpose is from two hundred to twenty- 
six hundred feet above the sea level, although in some cases 
planted near the sea, the cultivation has proved successful. 

These islands seem to have within their reach every possibility. 
There are the highlands and the lowlands; "where one species of 
vegetation may wither and die the other affords all the necessary 
strength and nourishment for the experimental plant or seed im- 
ported by the newly arrived investor. It is possible that as yet 
only half is revealed, as to the possibilities of vegetation on the 
islands. Hawaii may well be proud of her resources. 



122 



I 



FERNS. 

List of Hawaiian Ferns. 

Kindness of Dr. A. B. Lyons, Former Resident of Hawaii, 

Marattia Douglasii Baker. 

Schizaea robusta Baker. 

Gleichenia longissima Blume. 

Gleichenia dicbotana Hooker. 

" Hawaiiensis Hooker. 

Cibotium Menzeesii Hooker. 

" Chamissoi, Kaulfuss. 

" glaucum Hook. & Arm. 

Aceostichum squamosum, Schwartz. 

" Miceadenium Fee. 

*♦ Conforme Schwartz. 

** wawrae Luerssen. 

** reticulatum Kaulfuss. 

" gorgonum Kaulfuss. 

Gymuogramme javanica ..Blume. 

Vittaria Elongata Swartz. 

Colgpodium Hookeri Brack. 

Pr pseudogrammitis Gand. 

Polypodium Sawoeuse Baker. 

" lineare Thumberg. 

" Spectrum Kaulfuss. 

" Serrulatum Metten. 

" Haalilioanum Brack. 

" saementosum Brack. 

** Adenopliorus Hook. & Arm. 

" pellucidum Kaulfuss. 

" hymenoplylloides , Kaulfuss. 

^* abictiuum Eaton. 

** Tamaiiscinum Kaulfuss. 

" Hillebrandi Hooker. 

Phegopteris polycarpa Hilleb. 

" Kerandreniana Mann. 

" crinalis Mann. 

" Hillebrandi Hilleb. 

" Spinnloas Hilleb. 

" punctata Hilleb. 

123 



124 Ferris. 

Phegopterisunidentata Mann. 

" Sandwicensis Mann. 

Aspidium apiifolium Schk. 

" Bogdiae Eaton. 

" Cyatheoides, Kaulfuss. 

" caryotideum Wall, 

" unitum Schwartz. 

" truncatum Gandichand. 

" globuliferum Mann. 

" Filix-mas Schwartz. 

" Hillebrandi Carrutherg. 

" aculeatum, vas Beraunii Doell. 

•' rubigiuosumm Mann. 

" latifeous Brack. 

'* squamigerum, Mann. 

" Hawaiiense Hilleb. 

" aeistatum Swartz. 

" glabrum Metten. 

Vepheolepis exaltata Schott. 

Cystopluis Donglasii Hooker. 

Sadulia Sreleytiana Hilleb. 

" cyatheoides Kaulfuss. 

" pallida Hook. & Arm. 

" squarrosa Mann. 

Doodia media R. Brown. 

" kuntbiana , Gand. 

Asplenium Nidus Linn. 

" Tricliomaues Lin. 

" veonauthemum Lin. 

Asplenium uormale Don. 

" fragile Presl. 

" erectum , Boey. 

" resectum Smith. 

" contignum Kaulfuss. 

" candatuoi Fors. 

" nitidulum Hilleb. 

" Kundseuii Hilleb. 

" pseudofalcatum Hilleb. 

*• Manuii Hilleb. 



Ferns. 125 



Asplenium Kaulfussii Schlecht. 

" enatum Brack. 

" Horridum Kaulfuss. 

*' lobulatum Metten. 

" Bpathuliunm Hook, 

** variaus Hook. & Grev. 

'• Lydgatei Hilleb. 

" insititium Brack. 

" bipiunatum Hilleb. 

" furcatum Thumb. 

" Adiautum-nigrum Lin. 

Asplenium acuminatum Hook & Arm. 

" pulyphyllum Reeve. 

" pateus Kaulf. 

** sphsnotomum Hilleb. 

" dissectum Brack. 

" marginale Hilleb. 

" Fenzliauum Luerssen. 

" aeboieum Wild. 

" sandwiceuse Hilleb. 

" aeuottii Baker. 

" sandwichianum Metten. 

" depaeoides Brack. 

" aspidioides Schledet. 

" Baldwini Hilleb. 

Depaeia prolifaa Hooker. 

Lindsaya erecta Hooker. 

" pumila Hooker. 

" centifolia Hilleb. 

" falcata Hooker. 

" laciniata Hilleb. 

" Alexandri Hilleb. 

Lindsaya Kundseuii Hilleb. 

" Maunii Hilleb. 

Odontoloma repeus Desn. 

Miceolepia strigosa Presl. 

" heita Kaulf. 

" Jamaiceusis Fee. 

•' tennifolia Metten. 



126 Ferns. 

Ftuis decipilus Hooker. 

" decora Hooker. 

" cutica Lin. 

" irregularis Kaulf. 

" regularis E. Bailey. 

" excelsa Gandichand. 

" aquilina Lin. 

Schizostege Lydgatei.. Hilleb. 

Pellaca teruifolia Fee. 

Adiantum Capillus-venuis Lin. 

Trichesuaues paroulum P 

" intia uaesuale Hook. & Grev. 

" Dragtoniauum Brack. 

" meifolium Bory. 

" davallioides Gand. 

" crytotheca Hilleb. 

Hymeuoplegllum-Baldwinl Eaton. 

" recusoum Gand. 

" lauceolatum Hook & Arn. 

** obtusum Hook & Arn. 

Ophioglossum pendulum Lin. 

" nudicaule Lin. fils. 

" vulgatum Lin. 

" Botrychium sub-bifoliatum Brack. 

Besides these there are upwards of 90 forms regarded as vari- 
eties of some of the above species. 

Two genera only are peculiar to the Hawaiian Islands, Sadluia 
(near Blechuum) with four species, and Schizostege, allied to 
Ptuis—a simple species. 

Dr. A.B. Lyons, 
Former Resident of Hawaii. 



ORGAN RECITAL. 

KATJMAKAPILI CHURCH. 

OPENING OF THE NEW ORGAN, 

SATURDAY EVENING, APRIL 7, 1888, 

BY MR. WRAT TAYLOR, 

AT 7:45 o'clock. 
PROGRAMME. 

"HAWAII PONOI." 

Kaumakapili March in F Wray Taylor 

Berceuse in A Delbruck 

Evening Prayer Smart 

Fantasia in C. Major Tours 

Carillons de Dunkerque (1780) Carter-Turpin 

Prelude and Fugue in C Bach 

Fantasia Pastorale Wely 

Andante in C Silas 

Flute Concerto Rink 

War March from Athalie Mendelssohn 

"God Save the Queen." 

"Star Spangled Banner." 

" Hawaii Ponoi." 



127 



Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process, jj 
Neutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide ' 

Treatment Date: July 2003 

PreservationTechnologies 

A WORLD LEADER IN PAPER PRESERVATION 

1 1 1 Thomson Park Drive ^ i 

Cranberry Township, PA 16066 ' j 



